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Ghosts of the Tsunami (Parry)

(Richard Lloyd Parry will be speaking at Ryukoku University, Omiya campus, on May 12. All welcome; see right hand column for details. The book review that follows is a slightly amended version of the posting on the Green Shinto blog by John Dougill.)

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March 11, 2011 was a devastating day for Japan. Over 18,500 people perished in the gigantic tsunami that swept over the coastline of Tohoku in the country’s north-east. What’s more it led to a nuclear meltdown, the consequences of which are still on-going. Ghosts of the Tsunami, as indicated by the title, concerns itself with the natural disaster, not the man-made one.

The book, published in 2017, was written by Richard Lloyd Parry, correspondent for the UK’s The Times. It is remarkable in many ways, not the least for the technical feat of turning a sustained investigation of despair and destruction, of grief and mourning, into a compelling read. Based on interviews with both bereaved and survivors, the subject matter is a potential minefield, for a single inappropriate or insensitive statement could blow up in the writer’s face.

Even more astonishing, the book turns out to be a page turner because of the sense of immediacy. The focus on real-life individuals provides a felling of involvement, and the multiple narratives are skilfully handled in such a manner that the reader is constantly curious as to what or who will be featured next. There’s even a sense of mystery about the elementary school and the court case that comes to dominate the final sections, a mystery that is never fully resolved.

The book covers a broad section of fields: spirituality, folklore, cultural insight, political apathy, legal deficiencies, social values and the role of gaman (endurance, fortitude). The conclusion Parry comes to after his intensive examination of the tragic events is simple but striking.


When opinion polls put the question ‘How religious are you?’, Japanese rank among the most ungodly people in the world. It took a catastrophe for me to understand how misleading this self-assessment is. It is true that the organised religions, Buddhism and Shinto, have little influence on private or national life. But over the centuries both have been pressed into the service of the true faith of Japan: the cult of the ancestors.


Parry follows this up with a description of the part that the family altar, the butsudan, plays in Japanese life. The dead are represented in the form of memorial tablets called ihai (black lacquered wood, on which  is inscribed the posthumous name of the deceased). The contract between the living and the dead is simple: the dead will watch over the living as long as their memory is cultivated by respectful attention. Offerings of food, fruit and drink etc. are placed before the altar, a bell is rung to summon attention when paying respects, and reports made about important family developments. ‘The dead are not as dead there as they are in our own society,’ Parry quotes religious scholar, Herbert Ooms, ‘It has always made perfect sense in Japan as far back as history goes to treat the dead as more alive than we do … even to the extent that death becomes a variant, not a negation of life.’

The diligence with which Japanese tend to family graves is a further indication of the importance of the dead in the life of the living. And most of the kami that rule people’s lives are simply dead ancestors with special powers. Memorial days for the deceased are marked in religious fashion, and at the great festival of the dead in the summer, known as Obon, the sense of closeness to the dead reaches a peak as the veil between this world and the next opens and spirits return for the three days between the welcome back festivals and the sending off festivals.

It’s possible to read Parry’s book as one long treatise on the role of the dead in Japanese society. ‘When grief is raw, the presence of the deceased is overwhelming,’ he writes. ‘When there’s a fire or earthquake, the ihai are the first thing that many people will save, before money or documents,’ a priest observes. ‘I think that many people died in the tsunami because they went home for the ihai. It’s life, the life of the ancestors.’

For the simple down-to-earth villagers of Tohoku, the tsunami was a cruel interruption to the normal pattern of their lives. Family altars, family graves and family ihai were swept away forever. And those who had died prematurely and were robbed of their dreams become gaki, or hungry ghosts, destined to wander the earth unhappily. Placating them is a vital matter, but impossible when even the necessities of life for survivors were missing. And what of the ancestors who had lost all their living descendants and had no one to care for them?

The book is notable for the way the survivors talk to the dead, comfort them, and show a strong sense of closeness. In such circumstances it was only natural that there should be a swarm of ghostly sightings, and the number of spirits roaming the landscape is striking  – there are descriptions of possession, mediums who communicate with the dead, and in one remarkable case a Buddhist priest who exorcises no fewer than 25 different tsunami victims from a single woman.

‘At this point I couldn’t help thinking of that great ghost believer Lafcadio Hearn, and indeed he was the first foreigner to lay out in book form the central role of ancestor worship in Japan. Surprisingly Parry doesn’t reference him, even when talking of the kaidan, the strange tales, that characterised Tohoku folklore in the past and did so again after the tsunami. (In a note Parry acknowledges use of a more recent book on the subject, Robert J. Smith’s Ancestor Worship in Contemporary Japan, 1974.)

What comes over strongest of all in Parry’s account is the relentless, almost obsessive drive of survivors to locate the bodies of their family kin. This goes on in some cases for weeks and months of unending toil, even in one case turning into a lifelong quest for closure. Sometimes it results in gory encounters with mud-sodden corpses, rotten beyond recognition, yet still there is a sense of relief, comfort even in having located the body. It’s as if the spirit is still attached and can’t be consoled until the physical entity is properly processed. The Japanese determination to repatriate the remains of soldiers who died in WW2 can be seen in similar light.

In plunging into the depth of misery caused by the disaster of March 11, Parry captures the essence of the Japanese soul. In the passing of the baton from one generation to the next, there’s something very consoling for the memory of the dead is fostered by the living, who in turn are watched over by the deceased. But when disaster strikes, it can all go tragically wrong. You couldn’t get a more vivid depiction of this most Japanese style of disaster. The book is simply a tour de force that exposes the true bedrock of the country’s religious thinking.

Ghosts of the Tsunami (Parry)
Posted on April 21, 2019 by John D.

Reggie Pawle presentation

Reggie Pawle combines being a Kyoto psychotherapist with being a Zen practitioner, which has enabled him to explore the world within while helping others find their true selves. Zen and psychotherapy go back to the 1950s in fact, with Carl Jung holding ground-breaking discussions in 1958 with Hisamatsu Shinichi, a Zen philosopher with the Kyoto School. Alan Watts claimed that psychotherapy was the closest the West comes to Zen, because they both aim at a change in consciousness.

Reggie’s spiritual journey began with an LSD trip in 1970, followed by a commitment to celibacy and the quest for enlightenment. It led to such places as India, China and the Far East. It led too to Ram Dass and his book Be Here Now. Eventually it brought him to Kyoto’s Myoshin-ji and then Hossho-ji in Obama. With a mixture of pleasing anecdotes punctuated by spiritual insight, Reggie took us along on his journey through life, and the audience hung on his every word. Like others, he’s suffered pain and setbacks, struggled with koan, but something inside compelled him to continue. As a questioner pointed out, few people do.

Reggie talked for over an hour, and one sensed he had enough material and certainly enough energy to continue for at least another hour. ‘To study the Buddha Way is to study the self. To study the self is to forget the self.’ The words of Dogen, founder of the Soto sect, clearly resonated with him at a deep level. Questions came in quick succession and sadly had to be cut off in order to meet our dinner reservation. There were eighteen in all at the party, marking our fourth anniversary, and the craft beer was accompanied by some fine conviviality and new connections. Thanks go to Reggie for helping make the event such a success (his life story can be found below the pictures.)

Reggie Pawle writes…

I have gone on a meandering path in life from where I grew up, which was in the rural state of Maine in the U.S.A. I was brought up to follow in my family tradition (seven generations before mine) of being a Protestant Christian minister, I was a religion major in university, but I took a turn of some kind during a LSD trip in 1970. Since that turn I have studied, lived, and worked where my interests have led me. At that time I was inspired by Ramdass, an American who practiced yoga in India, so in 1972 I went to India and Nepal to study yoga.

In addition to having various yoga experiences, I also had many cultural experiences and got hooked on the combination of adventure, new cultures to understand, and spiritual seeking. In 1974, when I was having problems with yoga, Ramdass told me that my heart was ok, but my mind was a mess, and he recommended some good old Japanese discipline, so he introduced me to a Japanese Zen monk (Joshu Sasaki) from Myoshinji Temple in Kyoto. This began my connection to Kyoto and Japan.

In 1987 I was refused a visa to India, which led me to travel in other countries in Asia, which I loved, and because I had run into a road block in my Zen practice, in 1989 I came to study Zen in Japan for the first time. I met my teacher, Sekkei Harada, in 1990, at Hosshinji Temple in Obama-shi, Fukui-ken, and after that I visited Japan annually to practice Zen with Harada Roshi until I moved to Kyoto to live in 1999. My practical reason for this move was that I was working on my dissertation, which was interviewing six Japanese Zen monks about Zen and psychology. I found a home in Kyoto.

Reggie and ‘the holy book’ – Be Here Now by Baba Ram Dass

Along with being able to deepen my Zen practice, my time spent at the monastery opened many doors for me and gave me a huge access to the tradition of Zen. Thanks to my monastery “credentials,” despite my mediocre Japanese, I have always had access in Japan to my study and professional interests. I also in Kyoto had an endless variety of cultural experiences, met my Japanese wife (I got married for the first time at age 58), and received work in my field – both psychotherapy in private practice and teaching cross-cultural psychology at Kansai Gaidai University in Hirakata.

Being in Japan also increased my access to other parts of Asia, which allowed me to develop a natural affinity that I felt between my Zen practice and Ramana Maharshi’s (Sri Ramanasramam, Tiruvannamalai, India) practice of “Who am I?”, study Daoism and Tai Chi in China, and enjoy travel in Southeast Asia. In 2015 due to mandatory age 65 retirement I lost my job at Kansai Gaidai, which resulted in getting a new job at Assumption University in Bangkok, Thailand, teaching counseling psychology to graduate students. I have returned to Kyoto after three years of my eyes being opened to a new culture, now half-retired, and very happy to be back in our wonderful Japanese-style house and Kyoto life. I am still working as a psychotherapist in private practice and as a student counselor at Kansai Gaidai, but no more teaching, only occasional seminars and lectures.

With-Zen-ancestors-Bodhidharma-statue-
Dogen-hanging-writing-in-kanji

Since arriving in Japan I have written on a variety of subjects, mostly connected to cultural issues and to the integration of Western psychology with the Asian traditions, focusing on Zen, Japanese culture, and Daoism. Some of my articles have appeared in local publications such as Japanese Religions, Kyoto Journal, and Kansai Time Out. I have had a couple of book chapters, one on Zen and psychology and the second on Daoism and psychology, and some journal articles (see my blog for details).

Now that I have more time, one of my main goals is to write. I have three projects that I am currently working on. One is a study of Japanese and Western marriages, one is the use of Daoist ideas and principles for conflict resolution, and the third is writing short articles for my blog on cultural and Buddhist psychology. I am hoping that Writers in Kyoto will serve as an inspiration and support for me to complete these and more writing projects. Writing a book seems like an ephemeral dream right now, but maybe some day…

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For more about Reggie Pawle and his psychotherapy work, see www.reggiepawle.net

Writers in focus

Donald Keene in Kyoto

The following is taken from ‘Donald Keene: The American Who Became Japanese’ by Oliver Jia. (Click here to see original.)

After the American occupation of Japan ended in 1952, restrictions on outsiders entering the country finally eased. Acquiring funding to study in Japan proved to be difficult for Keene because the committees looked for applicants who specialized in practical subjects such as economics or business. Since his field was literature, he stressed that he would study modernJapanese writing, as opposed to classical works, in order to have a realistic chance of being accepted. In actuality, Keene secretly wished to study “the life and poetry of [Matsuo] Bashō” but was “willing to compromise in order to go to Japan” (Chronicles of My Life, p. 75). Keene had to make this sacrifice, but doing so allowed him to receive a fellowship that he would use to study in Kyoto.

Keene perfected his Japanese each day and absorbed as much of the culture as he could in Japan’s traditional capital. Looking back on his experience, Keene considered himself to be incredibly grateful to have visited Kyoto before its industrialization:

I think of myself as being extremely lucky to have seen Kyoto when I did. Probably students from abroad who live in Kyoto today, not missing the beauty I remember, feel equally lucky to see the city. But one can anticipate only further damage, more wooden buildings replaced by concrete structures, more quiet bookstores turned into display cases for garish best sellers, but the hills and rivers will remain. (Chronicles of My Lifep.83)

An additional offer from Columbia allowed Keene to extend his stay another year. This meant that he would have to resign from Cambridge to accept but being in Japan was more important to Keene. As part of the fellowship, he was required to enroll in an educational institution and chose Kyoto University. Regular class schedules, however, were minimal and professors rarely even attended lectures due to the low pay. This worked out in the end though, because it meant that Keene was free to explore Kyoto at his leisure and not have to worry about attendance.

Donald Keene at the grave of Matsu Basho (Japan Times)

As one of the few foreigners living in Kyoto, Keene wrote articles in English and Japanese for various publications, served as a translator/interpreter, and continued to study works of Japanese literature. In 1955, Keene wrote Anthology of Japanese Literature, a two-volume compilation that was praised for being the most comprehensive and detailed work on the subject that academia had seen in decades. Despite having been written over 60 years ago, Anthologyis still used today in universities across the world. Keene’s numerous writings led to appearances in radio, newspapers, and magazines throughout Kyoto and it was here that his fame started to grow.

Keene was reluctant to leave Japan and feared that he would be unable to return due to the cost. In actuality, he ended up coming back to Japan every year for months at a time due to grants related to his field of study and increasing levels of recognition. He befriended many famous Japanese authors and became involved in their social circles. 

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Donald Keene stands in front of the Muhinjuan, where he lived in his early 30s in Kyoto
(Asahi Shimbunfile photo)

The following is taken from the Asahi Shimbun, March 16, 2019, by Jiro Omura

Donald Keene’s Kyoto hermitage was no home for a hermit

KYOTO–Donald Keene spent his final days in Tokyo, but in his early 30s, the “Muhinjuan” hermitage here was home sweet home for the renowned scholar of Japanese literature.

“I thought the house and its environment were the best in the world as there was a green valley deeply spreading and the murmur of a brook,” Keene said.

He was smitten on sight with the old wooden-beamed dwelling thought to have been built over 700 years ago, after close friend Otis Cary (1921-2006), a professor at Doshisha University and a researcher of Japanese culture, showed it to him. Keene lived there for about two years after enrolling in Kyoto University in 1953.

It proved to be a productive period for Keene, who died at age 96 on Feb. 24, revered by the country he adopted, and around the world, as the individual primarily responsible for spreading the wonders of Japanese literature abroad.

Kyoto was Keene’s first love, although he went back and forth between his home country, the United States, and Japan after returning to New York in 1955.

His bond with Japan was so intense that following the 2011 earthquake, tsunami and nuclear disaster, he returned to Japan after taking Japanese citizenship at age 89.

The name of the house aptly fits Keene’s relationship with it: Muhinjuan means “house without any separation between its owner and a guest.”

True to its name, moving into Muhinjuan seemed to quickly open up new and vital social doors for the blossoming Japanologist, key contacts that would last a lifetime and cement his love of Japan’s history and culture.

While there, Keene met Michio Nagai (1923-2000), an assistant professor of educational sociology at Kyoto Uiversity, who later served as education minister. He brought Keene together with Hoji Shimanaka (1923-1997), president of the publishing firm Chuokoron-sha.

Keene’s encounters with them prompted him to deepen his friendship with other Japanese authors and delve further into researching Japanese literature.

The lover of Japanese letters would learn “kyogen,” a traditional form of comedic theater, from Shigeyama Sennojo (1923-2010), a performer of the art who belonged to the Okura school, and practice it at Muhinjuan.

The hermitage that Keene so adored is believed to have been built by surviving warriors of the defeated Taira clan in a mountainous area of the Hida district in today’s Gifu Prefecture, before being relocated to Kyoto’s Higashiyama Ward.

In 1979, it was again moved to the Imadegawa Campus of Doshisha University in the city’s Kamigyo Ward.

When the International Research Center for Japanese Studies, a body that tries to assess the impact of Japanese culture from an international perspective, was founded in the city’s Nishikyo Ward in 1987, Keene took up a professorship there.

“Keene created an atmosphere at the center where scholars with star quality gathered for research,” said Susumu Nakanishi, 89, a Japanese literature scholar who worked with Keene and lives in the ward.

“Keene was so popular that he would always draw a crowd during a party. He played a key role to spread Japanese culture to the rest of the world,” Nakanishi added.

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The following is excerpted from the tribute to Donald Keene by Kita City (here)

Ta r ō k a j a
In 1953, shortly after Donald Keene came to Kyoto to study in Japan, he started taking lessons in kyōgen in the belief that the study of a traditional art would further his understanding of Japanese culture. ough deeply impressed by Noh, he was attracted to the language of kyōgen and began studying with Shigeyama Sennojō of the Ōkura School. As he focused on mimicking his teacher’s voice and gestures, Keene had a feeling of being just the latest in a long line of students extending back through kyōgen’s long history, and he enjoyed his lessons tremendously. In 1956 he performed the role of Tarōkaja in the kyōgen play Chidori at the Kita Noh eater. Among the members of the audience were eminent writers including Tanizaki Junichirō, Kawabata Yasunari and Mishima Yukio.

Ginkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto
In 2001 Donald Keene wrote the critical biography Emperor of Japan: Meiji and His World, 1852-1912. In 2003, following the death of his friend Shimanaka Hōji, Hōji’s wife, who had become president of Chūōkōronsha, urged Keene to write about Nihon no kokoro (the soul of Japan). The result was Yoshimasa and the Silver Pavilion: The Creation of the Soul of Japan.

“He was a failure as a shogun. His married life with Hino Tomiko was unhappy, and his relations with his son, Yoshihisa, were marred by hostility. But in the last decade of his life, he was the guiding spirit of the Higashiyama era, and the cultural legacy to the Japanese people of that time proved immense. Possibly no man in the history of Japan had a greater inuence on the formation of Nihon no kokoro.” (Excerpted from Chronicles of My Life: An American in the Heart of Japan)

In the summer of 1953, Donald Keene arrived in Kyoto to study in Japan. He boarded at Muhinjuan, the guest house on the property of the Okumura residence in Imakumano. He endeavored to learn about Japanese culture and studied calligraphy at Chisaku-in Temple near his lodgings. Captivated by the splendid performances of the kyōgen actors he saw at a Noh theater, he studied kyōgen with Shigeyama Sennojō, head of the Ōkura School. Three years later, on September 13, 1956, he performed the role of Tarōkaja in the kyōgen play Chidori at the Kita Noh Theater in Shinagawa.

Writers in focus

Okuni by Lafcadio Hearn

Many of us will be aware of the Okuni statue that stands near Shijo Bridge. The statute shows her cross-dressed as a samurai, in acknowledgement of the plays she put on at the riverbank that became the starting point for kabuki. It’s well-known that she was a miko (shrine maiden) from Izumo, though not everyone will be aware of the details of her life. In a letter to his friend, the great Japanologist Basil Hall Chamberlain, Lafcadio Hearn disputes the harsh description of Okuni that Chamberlain gave in Things Japanese. Hearn here casts Okuni in a more sympathetic light as a poet as well as a dancer (Kizuki is a term locals used for Izumo.)

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The reference to O-Kuni seems to me extremely severe; for her story is very beautiful and touching. She was a miko in the Great Temple of Kizuki, and fell in love with a ronin named Nagoya Sanza, and she fled away with her lover to Kyōto. On the way, another ronin, who fell in love with her extraordinary beauty, was killed by Sanza. Always the face of the dead man haunted the girl. At Kyōto she supported her lover by dancing the Miko-kagura in the dry bed of the river Kamogawa. Then they went to Tōkyō (Yedo) and began to act. Sanza himself became a famous and successful actor. The two lived together until Sanza died. Then she came back to Kizuki. She was learned, and a great poet in the style called renga. After Sanza’s death she supported herself, or at least occupied herself, in teaching this poetic art. But she shaved off her hair and became a nun, and built the little Buddhist temple in Kizuki called Renga-ji, in which she lived, and taught her art. And the reason she built the temple was that she might pray for the soul of the ronin whom the sight of her beauty had ruined. The temple stood until thirty years ago. Nothing is now left of it but a broken statue of Jizō. Her family still live in Kizuki, and until the restoration the chief of the family was always entitled to a share of the profits of the Kizuki theatre, because his ancestress, the beautiful miko, had founded the art.”

(from The Life and Letters of Lafcadio Hearn by Elizabeth Bisland)*

In Things Japanese, Chamberlain had written disparagingly of Kabuki as a vulgar and lower form of theatre compared to Noh. As can be seen it was hardly complimentary to Okuni:

It was in the sixteenth century that this class of theatre [Kabuki] took its rise. Oddly enough, though the founders of the Japanese stage were two women named O-Kuni and O-Tsu, men alone have been allowed to act at the chief theatres, the female parts being taken by males as in our own Shakespeare’s age, while at a few inferior theatres the roles are reversed and only women appear. It would seem that immorality was feared from the joint appearance of the two sexes, and in sooth the reputation of O-Kuni and her companions was far from spotless.

An asterisk attached to later editions says, ‘Mr Lafcadio Hearn writes to us to remonstrate on this reference to O-Kuni as needlessly severe, given her story which is, as he says, both picturesque and touching. It may be taken as typical of a whole class of Japanese love-tales.’ He then includes the whole of Hearn’s piece in the footnote, a mark of the respect with which he held his contemporary despite the latter’s relative lack of Japanese language ability. Indeed, the extent of Hearn’s research in this regard is truly remarkable.

Writers in focus

An Ode to Salty Dogs (Rowe)

Lone kayaker (James Raymont)

Island of the Wind Child

There’s an island off the coast of western Honshu

Where six men in kayaks camp beneath moons

Sometimes a crescent, sometimes a half

But beware a full moon

The king tide might just steal your craft.

 

When the weather is fair and the sea breeze is soft

They paddle through seas without peak or trough

But when the wind blows and the sea takes a turn

It can swamp a good boat, a good man

Send him home in an urn.

 

Behold this small island

We call the Wind Child

With its short stretch of sand

And a forest gone wild

A forest with creatures that crawl in the night

Shake your boots in the morning

Or you might get a fright.

kayak + tent on beach (Simon Rowe)

And what about food?

Well the tucker’s divine

Cooked by old salts who like beef with their wine

On a beach in the dark over blazing hot coals

Beef and wine for a crew whose thanks is a howl.

 

You see, this crew has a name

The Salty Dogs they are called

A roving rabble in boats for whom

Nothing appalls

 

Nothing appalls?

Well, there may be one thing

It’s sand in the stew

True grit is not king!

Paddler on beach (Kevin Ballou)

Competition winner 2018

With ten days left to the deadline for the 2019 competition, WiK is reposting a winning entry from last year in order to stimulate the thoughts of those hesitating about entering…..  (Full details about how to enter can be found by clicking on the notice to the right.)

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The 2018 winning entry was by Terin Jackson, an American living in Kyoto who writes a blog for his private tour company. The competition took him out of his comfort zone, forcing him to cut down on his natural verbosity in order to keep within the word limit. ‘The process of whittling it all down from 500 words to 300 was both heartbreaking and enlightening,’ he writes.

For their part the judges felt the piece tackled a part of Kyoto culture that is at once deeply rooted in the history of the city yet is little-known by the average visitor despite its ‘exoticism’. Few will have even heard of the temple festival it describes, yet the maintenance of tradition in this way is a vital way in which the differing communities within Kyoto maintain their distinctiveness. The use of the masks to transform identities, and the reference to the tengu language as a ‘a baffling babble evocative of breaking branches, windswept bark, and wet leaves’ was felt to be particularly effective.

[Tengu are mysterious creatures which inhabit the woods. There are two types: one is long nosed and red-faced, the other bird-like with beak and feathers.]

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Photos by Terin Jackson

Tengu: A Firsthand Account

Timidly, five tengu emerge from the forest surrounding a remote hillside temple in Arashiyama. Matted eyebrows, wild moustaches, grotesque noses. Skin tones of red, turquoise, and gold. Clinking trinkets dangling from their soiled yamabushi priest robes. They walk on crooked legs, uneasy on the rocky ground. Rarely do these creatures leave the safety of the treetops. Their nervous eyes scan the crowd of villagers gathered to welcome these strange annual visitors to the autumn festival.

The tengu scamper into the temple. The local priest greets them and begins his chanting. The raspy voices of the tengu soon join in and fill the cold hall with a rough music so rarely heard by human ears. The sacred connection has been renewed, man and monster in perfect accord for a single day of the year.

Wilderness and village agreeing to live in harmony for another cycle of seasons.

Uneasy silence. Breaths held. The creatures slowly rise. A blessing in the tengu language croaks out from five beaked mouths, a baffling babble evocative of creaking branches, windswept bark, and wet leaves.

Namu-shen-kwa, namu-shen-kwa, namu-shen-kwa.”

The ritual is complete. With a nod to the priest, the tengu slip back into the woods.

Several minutes pass. Five old men appear, wearing yamabushi robes and rubbing their faces. They greet their fellow villagers. The villagers respond in kind. Knowing smiles and looks of satisfaction all around.

A skeptic would say that this was simply five old guys dressed up in silly costumes, doing their best to keep the ancient traditions of their shrinking community alive. However, unless you can catch a tengu and ask him, there’s honestly no way to know for sure.

Writing retreat in Shikoku (May 17-19)

The following piece below is extracted from a website giving much fuller information. Click here to see it…

Full title for the book on which the retreat is based is

The Abundance of Less: Lessons in Simple Living from Rural Japan

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For the first time in twelve years, in May of 2019, professional writing teacher, author of The Abundance of Less, and winner of the 2017 Nautilus Award in Sustainable Living, Andy Couturier, will be leading a small group of travelers to the mountains of Japan–the beautiful village of Kamikatsu on the southern island of Shikoku.

Using writing as a tool for self reflection (“non-writers” welcome), we can understand the forces–internal and external–that pull us way from the truly satisfied life we know we can live.

The journey will combine time for writing and reflection with encounters with some inspiring Japanese people who are pioneering a new way of living.   They have rejected the commercialism and status-consciousness of mainstream Japanese society  and live lives of deep contact  with the natural world.

There will be time for slow walks in the mountains, visits to Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, and daily baths in a rural hot springs by a rushing river.  And every day we will go deeper into ourselves and into our experience by using writing to help us discover “The Good Life” for ourselves.

Instead of “the cornucopia approach” that many tours to Japan take, this journey will be slow, rich, centered in order to support personal reflection, connection with nature, and community building among group members and villagers.

Instead of zooming all over the country, we will stay in one beautiful village for ten days so we can deepen into our internal reflection, and have plenty of time to write.

We will stay at hot spring with an inn beside a rushing river for most of the ten days, with an overnight trip to the sacred Shinto Todoroki waterfall complex (over eight huge waterfalls) with an overnight by the ocean and a visit to temple on the Buddhist pilgrimage.

Lodging will be modest but comfortable, in line with the theme of simplicity and respect for the natural world. Meals will be primarily vegetarian and incredibly delicious.

Dates:  May 17-27,  2019
Location: Kamikatsu Village, Tokushima Prefecture   

This is a journey for people who have read The Abundance of Less and who want to go deeper. By meeting people profiled in the book, Atsuko Watanabe, (chapter 3) and Osamu Nakamura, (chapter 2), and by guided writing experiences, you will find the tools to bring your life more in line with your values–individual, environmental and social.

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For details of the price, application process and style of retreat, please see this link.  For a review of the book on which the retreat is based, The Abundance of Less, please see this link by Edward J. Taylor.

Writers in focus

Free ebook limited offer

Free ebook of the WiK 2017 Anthology now available from amazon. Contributions by Alex Kerr, Amy Chavez and Eric Johnston, amongst others. Poetry, fiction, non-fiction and stunning illustrations by John Einarsen of Kyoto Journal fame.

This campaign, which closes Sunday, is to advertise the Writers in Kyoto Competition of 300 words about Kyoto, the deadline for which is March 31. ¥30,000 first prize, and Kyoto crafts for runners-up. Details of how to enter and examples of previous winners can be found on the writersinkyoto.com website.

After clicking on the link below, choose the right hand purchase button for ¥0 rather than the Kindle Unlimited version which amazon seems keen to push…

amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/Echoes-Writers-Kyoto-Anthology-2017-ebook/dp/B07JJ4WRVV/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=writers+in+kyoto&qid=1551904476&s=gateway&sr=8-1

amazon.jp
https://www.amazon.co.jp/Echoes-Writers-Kyoto-Anthology-English-ebook/dp/B07JJ4WRVV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1551904817&sr=8-1&keywords=writers+in+kyoto

 

CONTENTS

About Writers in Kyoto

Preface (Alex Kerr)

 Three Poems (A.J. Dickinson)

 On Childraising in Japan: Expanding into Interdependence (Karen Lee Tawarayama)

 Dateline: Kyoto – Western Journalism from Japan’s Ancient Capital (Eric Johnston)

 Poem: At Koryu-ji (Ken Rodgers)

 Lafcadio Hearn and Basil Hall Chamberlain (Joseph Cronin)

 Hearn, Myself and Japan (John Dougill)

Haiku Cycle (Mayumi Kawaharada)

 Three Old Men of Kyoto (Alex Kerr)

 Sprawling City, Sacred Mountain (David Joiner)

 Writers in Kyoto Competition: 2017 Winners
1) The Joys of Silence and Bewilderment (Jane Kramer)

            2) Palm of the Hand Story (Mark Cody)
3) Yamaguchi-san (Florentyna Leow)
           

Basho’s Appreciation for Women: 15 Poems of Female Experience (Jeff Robbins)

 Tokonoma Lessons (Paul Carty)

 Pride of Place – Saké Vessels (Robert Yellin)

Equivocal Ceramics (Allen S. Weiss)

Chieko’s Story: First Love at Daimonji (Isil Bayraktar)

Under the Light (Edward J. Taylor)

Six Poems (Mark Richardson)

 Return to Goat Island (Amy Chavez)

Writers in focus

Zen for Foreigners (Micah Auerback)

Micah Auerback with his copious research notes

At a dinner talk on March 3, Micah Auerback introduced us to research he is doing on the first outreach by Zen practitioners in Japan to Western foreigners. Currently on sabbatical from the University of Michigan, Micah is a specialist in Japanese religion and author of A Storied Sage, about the changes in depictions of the historical Buddha in Japan.

On this occasion Micah told us of the events at Enpuku-ji in the city of Yawata in the 1930s. Apparently the idea to reach out to foreigners was the brainchild of the head priest, Kozuki Tesshu (1879-1937), former abbot of Myoshin-ji, who believed in spreading Zen to Westerners by giving them a feel for the religion without subjecting them to the kind of rigorous regime demanded of Japanese. Western beds, for example, along with Western food and comforts. Although Kozuki did not speak English, he was aided by Ogata Sohaku (1901-73) who did, and who was attached to Shokoku-ji.

In an article of 1935, Ogata wrote of two types of Westerners with an interest in Zen. The first group were motivated by disillusionment with Christianity, prompting Ogata to note that Buddhism was a superior and more rational religion. Other Westerners were said to be motivated by a love of the Orient, and Ogata has some cutting remarks about them…

For people of this variety, simply to visit a Zen temple, far from the dust of the world, is itself already a great joy, and they feel limitless satisfaction at having a cup of tea with a Zen monk who wears rough garments on his body, but who dons silk in his mind. Sitting together with unsui, [practitioners of Zen] silent in a soundless hall, they come to feel as if they too have renounced the world, and when they walk through the spotlessly swept gardens of the training temple, they feel just as if they have transformed into a figure in an ink-painting…  To arrange soup, bread, and butter on the dining table – and when it’s time for the meal, to hear the calm sounds of the sutra – is, they say, much more introspective and noble than beginning a dinner party with music in the Western style. Thus what these people want seems to be a lifestyle and a mode of sensibility that are purely Oriental….   while we are evaluating whether Westerners could possibly understand Zen, a letter arrives from their homelands, written by a blue-eyed foreign monk who wears a haori jacket and sits on tatami, saying “Amongst the Japanese I think that the unsui in the training hall and the geisha girls are the most impressive. They are always alert and on guard everywhere.”

The provision of a hostel for Westerners at Enpuku-ji provoked a short news item in the New York Times, noting that it had been ‘specially built for foreign comfort’ with electric heaters, running water and foreign plumbing. It also noted that the sermons of head priest Kozuki would be translated by Daisetsu Suzuki, who had lived in the US and had an American wife.

Among the copious handouts Micah kindly presented the group with was a fascinating list of contents for a yearbook published by the Osaka Mainichi for 1932-33. Amongst such featured items as ‘Olympic [sic] and Japan’, ‘Japanese Women as Lawyers’, and ‘Geisha Becoming Dance Minded’ is a full page article on a ‘Zen Hospice’ with the subtitle ‘Unique Attempt in Japan to Propagate Zen Teaching Among Foreign Devotees’. One of the most striking items is a picture of the Meditation Cave, which summons up thoughts of asceticism and Bodhidharma. In fact the cave was specially built for the exclusive use of foreign students with consideration for their comfort and fitted with tatami and heating.

Micah tells us he still has loose ends to follow up before he completes his picture of what went on exactly, and that eventually his research will end up in an article or articles about the Enpuku-ji experiment. We look forward to seeing the result and reading more of this intriguing tale.

Writers in focus

WiK 2017 Anthology (Yellin)

One of the pieces in the Second WiK Anthology (Echoes, 2017) was by Robert Yellin, international expert on Japanese pottery and owner of the Yakimono Gallery. The following piece is an extract only; the full article is in Echoes: Writers in Kyoto Anthology, which can be obtained in print or Kindle ebook versions through amazon. Following this general introduction, Robert goes on to describe three of his favourite pieces (one of which is the Iga flask to which he refers). An indication of his eye for beauty can be seen in the striking photographs that he has given us permission to reproduce below…

For an account of Robert’s talk for Writers in Kyoto, see here.

(The 2018 WiK Anthology is expected out in June.)

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Drinking saké in Japan is an art when done with the right vessels. The history of saké vessels—collectively called shuki in Japanese—dates back millenniums and the variety of shuki found throughout Japan is as varied as there are clouds in the sky. For me, collecting shuki was my introduction into the Japanese pottery world as a young twenty-something in 1984 who couldn’t afford an expensive imported California Cabernet Sauvignon and so I thought better to go local, and that of course meant saké.

Almost all potters in Japan make shuki and they are avidly collected, often the first items to sell-out at exhibitions. Some of the earliest pieces I bought are shown here and have taught me quite a lot about Japanese history, regional styles, the joy of functional art, and of course the immense pleasure that comes with using fine vessels at the table, something the Japanese call Yo-no-Bi or Beauty through Use.

Iga is one of Japan’s ancient high-fired unglazed stonewares named after the town it was made in, as often is the case for Japanese styles. [Take this] Iga tokkuri, or flask, by the celebrated potter Shiro Tsujimura. At first I didn’t ‘get it.’ Look, the neck is leaning, there’s grit all over it, the base has a fused bit of clay on it, the glazing is uneven! In most western traditions—and certainly at art schools—this would have been a failure piece, yet here in Japan it’s the epitome of good taste. The reason being we find nature and man working together without one wanting to totally control each other or the process, yet letting intuition, passion, experience, and letting go take over. Meaning the beauty of this Tsujimura tokkuri is of course the clay he dug, processed and formed, yet also his willingness to let the process also have a say in the outcome, in a sense what we might call the ‘Beauty of the Imperfect.’ Kind of like you and I.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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