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Books set in Kyoto

Encounters with Kyoto: WiK Anthology 3

On sale now from amazon.com, amazon.co.jp and other Amazon marketplaces. (Revised 2021)

Edited by Jann Williams and Ian Josh Yates
Foreword by Juliet Winters Carpenter

Inside these covers lies the third collection of enticing works by Writers in Kyoto. From gardens to gangsters, temples to tourism, ceramics to Casablanca, the diverse writings of 22 authors will capture your imagination. Fresh new authors place their work alongside established and respected writers already known for their insights into Japan. All find inspiration from the muse of Kyoto city. The works include dreamy fiction, memorable non-fiction as well as remarkable poetry on the city that’s inspired a million poems. New works by Alex Kerr and Simon Rowe bookend the newest winners of the annual Writers in Kyoto Competition and much more. A captivating thread running through the anthology is the invitation to encounter and reflect on the splendour of the ancient city yourself. For those who are still to visit Kyoto, and those who have already been, what will your story be?

Contents

Encountering Kyoto’s Writers

Foreword. Juliet Winters Carpenter.

Primal Memories. Alex Kerr

Two Poems. A.J. Dickinson

An Intercalary Moment.  Allen S. Weiss

A Different Kind of Tourist Amy Chavez

The Wild Spaces Within Edward J. Taylor

Benevolent Fire. Fernando A. Torres

My Complicated Encounters with Kyoto.  Ian Josh Yates

The Forbidden Garden. Iris Reinbacher

Toji Moments. James Woodham

Shinsen’en, a Heian-kyo Power Spot.  Jann Williams

WRITERS IN KYOTO COMPETITION: 2018 WINNERS
Tengu: A Firsthand Account Terin Jackson
How Many Chances? S. Juul
Harukaze. Anna Quinn

Milestones. John Dougill

The Will of the People: Higashi Hongwanji’s Hair Ropes. Karen Lee Tawarayama

Encountering Kyoto.  Ken Rodgers

Childhood Memories. Mayumi Kawaharada

Essays by One who was Not Quite Idle Enough Marianne Kimura

Scribbled in Miyako.  Mike Freiling

Everybody Comes to Kyoto. Preston Houser

A Wizard, Kawai Kanjiro: Kyoto Ceramic Artist. Robert Yellin

Spirited Away.  Simon Rowe

Contributors

Photographs and Illustrations

WiK Competition 2019 First Prize

Writing on behalf of the judges, Competition Organiser Karen Lee Tawarayama comments that this , “A vivid account of the atmosphere surrounding Gozan Okuribi, the final Buddhist festival of the Obon season, touching on the accompanying deep, bittersweet feelings of those who have lost precious family members within recent months but must let their spirits go until the following year’s visit.”

Okuribi
by Lisa Wilcut, USA, resident in Yokohama, Japan

perfect timing, isn’t it, the rain letting up like that
I’d almost given up
still, you almost can’t breathe, it’s so humid
but it’s better up here
mmm, a little breeze
wait, I’ll get some beer

ahh, that’s just the thing
itadakimasu
and that one? drinking two, are you?
for your mother, ne
I have to look away, the tears.
Kaa-san, kanpai! he says, raising both glasses in the direction of Otani
—the darkness kindly hiding the pain I can’t hold back.

This year, our first to welcome her at Obon.
From the hotel roof, the spirits nearly
palpable in the haze that
hovers over the city like heavy gauze.

ah! Daimonji! it’s lit, it’s lit!
look, look!

The kanji shape, a nascient glow in the distance;
small lights, set apart, slowly growing
brighter
until the whole shape burns
glowing, shifting in the wind, burning up the air.

great idea, watching from here
mmm -
His eyes fixed in the distance.

look, look!

Straight ahead, the next fire starts to twinkle,
myoho, for the lotus sutra.
that’s my favorite
ah, so?
the two characters, snuggled up like that
mmm, suppose so

Next, the boat, then the left daimonji
Why do the fires move left?
Buddhism usually moves clockwise.

And finally, the torii. No, don’t light it
just yet. Not the last one.
Okaasan, don’t go. Stay, just a little longer.

Writers in focus

WiK Competiton 2019 Second Prize

“Sunrise Over the Kamogawa” by Ina Sanjana (UK citizen living in Kyoto)

From the judges: “Homelessness within Kyoto is a rarely discussed topic, and Kamogawa Park is often viewed more as a recreational area for joggers, cyclists, children, dog walkers, couples, and instrumentalists. The judges appreciated this alternative perspective.”

Sunrise Over the Kamogawa

In the daytime, he would like someone to look his way and see him. He would like to hear someone say his name, even in contempt.

He catches snippets of gossip from the passers-by, and stitches them together day by day. The city has spent money on new announcements in the shopping street. On signs. On apps. On leaflets.

It rained last night, and his socks and shoes are damp. He sets them out to dry beside a bench, and lies down for a nap.

Looking up, he notices that someone has looped a string through a bike key and hung it reverently from a branch, so that it might be reunited with its owner. It swings back and forth in the breeze. He shuts his eyes firmly, and drifts off to sleep.

Darkness falls. Around 1am, after the last trains have departed, the night is his. He ambles down to collect the discarded drinks cans by the water’s edge. He necks a lingering mouthful here and there. Later, in the morning light, the volunteers with their litter-pickers will descend, snaking down the river that they groom and dote upon.

When his bags are full of cans to sell, he rinses his hands in the clear water, wincing from the cold. He settles by the bank to rest.

He watches as the sky over the mountains fades from black to purple. He lets himself feel the ache in his back, the chill in his bones, and the weight in his heart. In this calm and stillness, they don’t seem so overwhelming. The mountains and the sky remain the same day after day, constant and indifferent to everything, and the clear, cherished water flows on and on, as it will for another thousand years.

Writers in focus

WiK Competiton 2019 Third Prize (Kimura)

[In keeping with long-time legends of the ghosts and spirits that reside in Kyoto, this piece reminded the judges of the Kwaidan stories gathered by Lafcadio Hearn, simultaneously chilling and tender.]

Yurei Ame/ Ghost Candy
by Marianne Kimura, Canadian, resident in Kyoto

Who was that?

The same woman as last night and the night before.

The one in the midnight-blue kimono?

Yes, with the pattern of the moon and the rabbits in yellow and gold.

What did she want? The same thing?

Yes, the same thing.

Dusk on Matsubara Street, the sound of the temple bell at Kinnenji, to the north, tolling evening prayers. Yasaburo started stacking the bags of barley-tea candy into a large shallow box made of paulownia wood to protect them from the humidity and dust.

The shadows flickered near the faded red shop curtain in the doorway and Yasaburo held his breath as the young woman glided in.

One bag, please.

Yasaburo’s voice clotted up in fear, but he somehow managed to croak out the price, for the sake of maintaining appearances, though the woman in the midnight-blue kimono was already holding out the right coin. He took it gingerly and her fingertips, like icy swan’s feathers, brushed against his skin. The coin was as cold as death, like all the others she had given him.

Thank you, she murmured, so softly it was hard to catch.

Or was this whisper just Yasaburo’s imagination?

She lifted her left sleeve and dropped the bag inside the silken pocket. The shimmering yellow moons on her kimono glimmered faintly, rocking to sleep the rabbits, pale and peaceful celestial stowaways.

Exactly three days later, the baby, very much alive, would be found, muddy, naked, and crying in an open grave, though his mother, the woman who they assumed was his mother, that is, had been buried after her funeral ceremony, seven days before that.

Yasaburo received this miraculous news first with trepidation, then, as the days passed, with an increasing sense of serenity, but the woman never returned.

*********************

For more by WiK member Marianne Kimura, please click here or here or here.

Writers in focus

2019 Competition Kyoto winner (Ramsden)

Kevin Ramsden admiring his prize for ‘Kyomojo’,
a very personal take on life in Kyoto

Kyomojo (by Kevin Ramsden, British, Kyoto resident)

A one, two three …

Scoffin’ down a bento / slippin’ in a sento / Air BnB for rento
Yamazaki whisky / pickled veg from Nishiki / horumon very risky
Rubbery wakame / shellin’ edamame / dollars? sorry, dame
Peko chan and poko, have a go at taiko / Ooh!, look there’s a maiko
Giant gates on jinjas / dressing up as ninjas / join the sake bingers
Singing on the maiku / speeding on a baiku / knocking out a haiku
Stumbling Kiyamachi / WiFi pretty patchy / is J-Pop that catchy?
Irashaii doormat / izakaya chit-chat / green tea flavor Kit-Kat
Nikon with a monster zoom / more hotels than actual room /no end to the ramen boom? Bizen, basho, bamboo / hard rock kanji tattoo / Kyoto gin and yuzu
Walking with philosophy /different season, different tree /shocking cost of ma ma Brie!!
Trooping up the Kamogawa / umeboshi red and sour /BBQ up on the tower
Tinko tinko tinko / dinko dinko dinko / plinko plinko pachinko
Ebi fry and chewy kaki / sushi? OK, make mine maki / OKONOMIYAKI!!
Incense sweetly smellin’ / ceramic beauty sellin’ / go see Mr. Yellin
Dodgy looking manga / soft and muted anger / another loss for Sanga
Funny voice on Hankyu man / underwear bought in a can / curry CoCo ichi ban
Summer yuka lazing / ice cold brewski raising / Daimonji blazing
Fake food in the window / very pricey budo / gee gees down at Yodo
Cherry blossom party / wrestlers hale and hearty / Okazaki arty
Pig and ING and Rub a Dub / dancing at the Metro Club / Dave. D sitting in the HUB
Hallowed ground and Hello Kitty / oni, tengu not as pretty …This is my Kyoto City.

*******************
For more by Kevin, click here.

Kevin Ramsden at the Yakimono Gallery holding up this year’s local prize, kindly donated by gallery owner Robert Yellin

2019 Competition USA Prizewinner

(For a full list of prizewinners, please click here on 2019 Competition ).

Fade
by Samantha JC Hoh, Philadelphia, USA

“Did you know cicadas actually live for many years?”

Tak, tak. Our sandals smack the stone in rhythm as I try not to stumble over the hem of my yukata.  

“Really? I didn’t know that.”

“It’s true! They spend years underground and only come out when they’re ready to mate. Then they die off and the cycle continues, I guess.”

The sun is disappearing behind the trees, bathing the sky in blinding gold. I inhale the heavy air and listen. The cicadas’ cries are high and mournful. Like my own breathing, I’ve become so accustomed to them that I no longer hear them until I concentrate. Before, they used to wake me.

“What a sad life.”

“You think so?” His tone is indifferent, and he pauses a moment. “You know, you’re lucky you won’t be here when they start dying. They drop out of the trees and land in people’s hair.” He grins at me.

But, I think, the dying has already started. The other day I saw one on its back, writhing like a fat, dismembered thumb with bulging eyes. Its legs were still moving, erratic and slow.

Help! Anyone, please help! If you could just get me back on my feet again, I’ll be able to fly! I’ll fly away and sing for you…

A cool breeze dries the sweat from my hairline, and I catch the scent of cotton candy. I wipe my hands on my thighs and force a chuckle. “Why are we talking about bugs, anyway? You better not make me lose my appetite.”

“We both know you never would,” he says, and I give him a shove.

That night, we promise to meet again as the fireworks disappear into the black sky.

The chorus fades when summer ends, and I’m already long gone.

Writers in focus

Kyoto Soundscape

Radio Gidayū

Created by Allen S. Weiss and Daisuke Ishida for the Klangkunst program of Deutschlandradio Kultur Berlin, 2014, commissioned by Marcus Gammel, Radio Gidayū is simultaneously a soundscape of Kyoto, a sonic travel diary, the evocation of a utopian space, and a work of musique concrète.

It is inspired by the art of gidayū, a type of chanted narration that originated in Bunraku puppet theater, but which has evolved into a purely vocal and musical art form, fluctuating between recitation, song, and noise. The vocalist – with only shamisen accompaniment – recites all parts, both male and female, as well as all sound effects, characterized by the most extreme vocal techniques. Gidayū transforms the world into sound, in a theater without stage or actors, not unlike that of Hörspiel (radio drama), a theater for the ears. Gidayū may thus be considered among the precursors of radiophonic art.

Five days in Kyoto. We are transported to a tea ceremony near Daitoku-ji, and to worshippers at the Yasaka shrine in Gion; we hear the sounding of the great bell at Hōnen-in, the suikinkutsu at Enkō-ji, and the bustle of the Terimachi shopping mall; and we finally arrive at the famed garden of Ryōan-ji, where the sonic reality is surprisingly different from the spiritual ambience one might expect.

Finally, nothing is as it seems, and the listener shall have ample opportunity to take imaginary detours and create private scenarios. For Kyoto is both a real city and a fantasmatic realm, and this piece is both travelogue and music. In a word, Radio Gidayū presents Kyoto as a symbolic sonic environment.

[The piece which is 44 minutes long can be accessed on the following page by pressing the small Play button on the righthand side.]

http://sonosphere.org/en/collection_en/artist_en/detail_en/items/196.html

Writers in focus

Richard Lloyd Parry talk

Richard Lloyd Parry talking about journalism and his non-fiction books, May 12

‘Kyoto gaijin are different. Tokyo gaijin are there for money or sex. Kyoto gaijin are here for Zen, or lacquerware, or Heian poetry, or to learn shakuhachi. Nearly everyone plays shakuhachi!’ So began the absorbing talk by Richard Lloyd Parry at Ryukoku’s new stylish building on the Omiya campus, next to the World Heritage site of Nishi Honganji.

As is the case with many of us, Richard’s path to Japan had been a matter of chance and good fortune. In his case, particularly so. At the age of 16 he won a trip to Japan on a tv show. After studying English Literature at Oxford, he got into freelance journalism before being sent to Japan by The Independent. It was 1995 and the end of the postwar expansion period – The Hanshin earthquake, the Sarin attack, the consequences of the bursting of the bubble. Seven years after arriving Richard was offered a job with the world’s oldest surviving newspaper, The Times.

What does he like about his job? Variety, diversity, travel, investigation, the research, the unpredictability; ‘Above all, I like writing,’ he concluded. His career had taken him to some dangerous places too – wars in Afghanistan, Iraq, East Timor and Kosovo. Conflict with Japan’s ultra-rightists too. He appeared to have a remarkable sang-froid.

As for his books, he noted that journalists often turn to longer works because articles are so limiting. Typically there are just 700 words to play with. With such tight limitations, it’s impossible to do a subject justice. Compared to journalism, book writing was a different style of writing altogether, much like running 100 meter dash compared to a marathon. Whereas cliché was the friend of the journalist; book writers had to take more care. It meant that he’d taken time off – unpaid – in order to write his books. As well as one about Indonesia, there were two best-sellers about Japan – People Who Eat Darkness (2012) and Ghosts of the Tsunami (2018).

The first of the books concerned the murder of a young English hostess, Lucie Blackman, which was an unusual case in many ways, particularly in terms of the psychology of the killer and the trial which he faced. Japanese police are excellent in many respects, but in terms of police procedural and collecting evidence they do not excel. In this case they emerged with great discredit. The second of the books was sparked by the aftermath of the Tohoku tsunami and the remarkable dignity of survivors. No squabbling or self-pity, but self-discipline, generosity and collaboration. It was not just the best of Japan, but the best of humanity.

The book he wrote of his experiences in Tohoku centred around a primary school where 74 schoolchildren had perished – the whole school except for four children and one teacher. As it turned out, the children had died unnecessarily and a cover-up had taken place, raising questions about responsbiity, preventative measures and the Japanese justice system.

It turned out that the books were not so much investigations of crimes, as enlightening enquiries into the nature of Japanese society. Richard let slip that he’s presently contemplating another book though he was reluctant to divulge what the subject matter might be. There were a lot of people in the audience who will be eagerly awaiting the day the book comes out.

Kyoto Journal (Ken Rodgers) interacts with Japan Times (Amy Chavez) in the networking following the talk

Writers in focus

Lovsic in Kyoto

News of a new book set in the contemporary city. The Kindle version on amazon japan has a discount for ¥988. Here’s the press release, which is a model of marketing. We’ll carry a review of the book later in the year…

Lovesic in Kyoto

Seen through the lens of Buddhist wisdom, Lovesic in Kyoto is a captivating journey through spirit, language, musicianship, and the beauty and contradictions of modern-day Japan. From racing through New York City subways to riding his bicycle past kimono-clad maiko in Kyoto, author/expatriate Jay Crystall shares the colorful, twisting path that led him to Japan. Told with wit and candor and backlit by myriad lessons, hilarious faux pas, and the slippery slope of self-discovery, he begins to unfold a lifelong dream of impacting culture. 

Seattle, WA – Lovesic in Kyoto: Building Understanding Between the United States and Japan – Authors Jay Crystall and Catherine Lenox announce publication of their newest book, Lovesic in Kyoto. Rated number one in its category on Amazon.com, the book shares real life experiences of the Japanese people and their culture and dispels myths Westerners may carry about them as seen through the eyes of an expatriate from the U.S. Since author Jay Crystall hasn’t been in Japan long, he sees it with fresh, perceptive and often hilarious eyes. He’s foraged into a foreign land of his own volition, braved purchase of an English school, created a curriculum based on cultural exploration, real life role-play and music, and started a psychedelic rock band with musical elements drawn from all corners of the globe. He’s done that in seven short years, something that takes many people a lifetime to do if they are even brave enough to try it. With wit and candor, he shares these experiences and perceptions about it in the book. How authors Jay Crystall and Catherine Lenox met, decided to write the book, and proceeded to create it has been its own delightful story, too.

In April 2014, Catherine went to an art show opening at a new contemporary art gallery while visiting Kyoto, Japan from Seattle, Washington. As she’d swept through the room admiring abstract LED sculptures, mirrors, and landscape photos, she’d noticed a guy who looked noticeably out of place in that sea of Japanese artists and friends. Standing in one of the concrete cube rooms in the stark white gallery, a good head taller and broader than most of the other people there, he’d grinned ear-to-ear and gestured larger than life. His smile had literally filled the room. Curious how he happened to be there, she’d bounded enthusiastically up to him and introduced herself. Catherine and Jay immediately recognized each other as friends with a common appreciation of Japan and friended each other on Facebook.  Neither of them knew at the time that Jay’s Buddhist practice, founded in the concept of being in rhythm with the universe and with what he calls “Original Good,” was already at work toward writing Lovesic in Kyoto. The essence and meaning of Original Good, a phrase Jay had coined 20 years ago for a song, is based on the Buddhist concept of seeing the essential goodness and potential in ourselves and others. If we stay true to it, see it and feel it, and consciously exert ourselves to draw out the innate goodness in everything around us and in us, we connect directly to a divine force for good. Wonderful things happen. The book, Lovesic in Kyoto, is an outgrowth of that philosophy.

Over the past four years, Jay and Catherine have developed a solid virtual friendship, talking over Facebook chat, cell phones, from his school to her office, over 5,000 miles and from a huge ocean of distance away to craft their book. The time zone difference has been tricky. Jay’s been perky and energetic while talking with Catherine during the day from his school while she’s been bleary-eyed from her side of the world late at night. She’s been energized and awake while he, bleary-eyed, has talked with her during his late hours. They’ve both lost a lot of sleep and probably aged more than a bit in the process. But they’ve also been each other’s cheerleaders during the challenges and championed each other’s writing and insights. They’ve been each other’s confidants when life got tough. They’ve celebrated each other’s successes. They’ve been weary but they’ve kept going. Revision after revision has flown through the airways back and forth. Recordings of music and chat have passed incessantly through their computers. Incomplete and incorrect transcriptions from a transcription service have given them both more than a few puzzles and giggles. All this between two people who have only truly met each other in person once. It’s been quite an adventure.

Thousands of hours later, they have created a work that is a testament to their mutual admiration of and fascination with Japan and a “love song” to how experiencing Japan has made them both better people. They’ve grown much through the experience and one of the big gifts of the process is they’ve garnered a great friendship and created a work they both feel represents their fondness for Japan. Read Lovesic in Kyoto. Discover the vibrant, sometimes quirky, new Kyoto as seen through the eyes of a recently landed expatriate.

Writers in focus

Lloyd Parry’s ‘People Who Eat Darkness’

Book review by Josh Yates

People Who Eat Darkness: The True Story of a Young Woman Who Vanished from the Streets of Tokyo – and the Evil by Richard Lloyd Parry (Farrar, Strauss and Giroux, 2012,454pp)

*****************

“Japan’s a safe country”

“Women can walk around in the middle of the night and not worry”

These are common enough stereotypes that you might even hear from an ex-pat who has spent a number of years living in Japan, and they hold some truth.

But darkness can be found even in the land of the rising sun.

Richard Lloyd Parry knows it too, maybe as well as anyone, after working the Tokyo beat as a journalist starting in 1995. Parry had as close a view of the crimes surrounding the disappearance of Lucie Blackman and the insane, unbelievable if it hadn’t been true, investigation and trial that followed.

For anyone unfamiliar with the case, a bit of background (I’ll avoid major spoilers, but the book itself is far more than just the details anyway), Lucie Blackman was a young English woman who went missing while living and working in Tokyo in the year 2000. This led to the revelation for her family that in actuality Lucie had been working at a hostess club, far from the type of work her parents had pictured.

Now, hostesses are not sex workers, but the work certainly involves the selling of a sexual image at the very least, as well as almost always selling your time outside the clubs to date and spend time with important customers.

When it became apparent that something very odd was happening, Lucy’s family rushed to Tokyo in an attempt to pressure the police to do more. This begins the story that will lead to battles between the Blackmans and the Japanese Police, the narrowing down of a suspect, and the eventual, though delayed, finding of a young woman’s body.

Simple cut and dried case?

Not at all.

There are so many twists and turns along the way that I’m not sure any critic would want to even attempt to list them. All the detail gives us a heavy book, but, if I haven’t hinted enough already, one that a reader will not want to skip a single page of, or put down for any longer than it takes to get some sleep.

Parry shows an ability to take a jumble of information and put it all down in a way for the reader to feel that they haven’t missed anything, but haven’t been bogged down either. The writing is fluid, intelligent, and always intriguing. Parry leads us on an incredible walk, one in which we often want to close our eyes but take peeks between the slits of our fingers to catch a glimpse of the monster.

And what a monster it is… but I did promise not to spoil anything, didn’t I.

Suffice it to say that Parry found a character in Joji Obara who belongs in the works of Thomas Harris.

However, maybe the most incredible part of this book is that the darkness eater and his horrible crimes don’t become the sole focus. Instead, at least two more amazing stories emerge.

Parry spends a large part of the book humanizing Lucy’s father, who might have been easily tossed aside as a 2D minor villain or a simple schmuck. While the news reporters at the time seemed to have decided that Tim Blackman was not the grieving father he ought to have been, Parry doesn’t leave it at that but spends time filling in blanks and painting the full picture that was glossed over too often in the media coverage.

Finally, along with all of that, Parry is able to wind in the story of the Tokyo police. Are they misunderstood by the foreign media? Highly Inept? Or playing a game to which only they know the rules? Along with all the other wonderful points that make this book worth recommending, anyone interested in the case of Carlos Ghosn might find it a valuable insight into the workings of Japanese police investigation and the criminal process as a whole.

This is a remarkable book, and Parry is a worthy journalist and author. In his later work, Ghosts of the Tsunami, Parry took the deaths of thousands and found individual stories within all the suffering. Here, with just one young woman’s death (oh, but maybe not!), Parry finds the bigger story.

A masterpiece of true crime writing.

******************

See here for the Wikipedia page of Richard Lloyd Parry

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