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‘Encounters with Kyoto’ – Australian launch in Hobart Tasmania

A report written by Ruth Williams who calls Melbourne, Australia home. The launch took place on September 22, 2019.

Every good book deserves further acknowledgement and the third Writers in Kyoto Anthology qualifies. Following the Japanese launch held in Kyoto in June, an Australian launch took place in Tasmania in late September. This was fitting as both Jann Williams (the chief editor and designer) and Corinne Costello (the cover artist and daimonji illustrator) live on this beautiful island.

Friends, family and colleagues of both Jann and Corinne were thrilled when the Hobart launch was announced and delighted with the presentations, the venue, and the thoughtful provision of delicious hors d’oeuvres and a selection of wine and other beverages to enjoy.

Thanks goes to James Hampton for offering his restaurant Lizzie & Lefroy as the launch venue

After being welcomed by Michael Cromer, an accomplished practitioner in the local Urasenke tea group, the anthology was officially launched by Dr Heidi Auman (author, biologist and taiko player), who began by acknowledging the traditional owners of the land on which we met that day.

Not surprisingly, and indeed satisfyingly for the audience, Heidi’s focus was largely on the contributions to the anthology made by Jann and Corinne, drawing on an interview with the chief editor. This gave the audience insights into the many steps along the way involved in producing the publication. Heidi declared the anthology to be full of ‘elegance, balance, beauty and honesty’, adding ‘to sum it up would be to express a sense of ‘Ahhh!’ that resonates with an energetic sense of knowing.’

Heidi receiving applause and appreciation after launching the third WiK Anthology in Hobart, Tasmania

This was the perfect lead into Jann William’s talk. The audience was interested to learn of the role Jann played as chief editor: to create a publication of which the authors would be proud, and that readers would find stimulating and new. Based on the early response to the anthology, this aim was indeed achieved.

Jann informed us that the Kyoto launch was three months ago ‘to this day’, occurring on the Summer Solstice in Japan. (Winter in the Southern Hemisphere.) There was a pleasing sense of serendipity that the Hobart launch should occur on the Spring Equinox in Australia, especially with Jann’s interest and knowledge of the seasons through her work on the elements.

There were many people for Jann to thank, particularly the anthology writers and illustrators for their efforts and her siblings Ruth, Hugo and Rod for travelling from Melbourne for the launch

Jann read from Ken Rodger’s compelling and reflective essay in the anthology, as well as her contribution, Shinsen’en, a Heian-kyo Power Spot. The audience learnt that it is only a five-minute walk from where she stays when in Kyoto. You could almost see people wondering if they could drop by Jann’s lodgings for a visit and tour of the area!

A very appreciative audience. Some who have already travelled to Kyoto, reminiscing

Corinne Costello brought a strong sense of wonder and artistry to the event. She began by reading from Alan S. Weiss’ anthology story, An Intercalary Moment. Alan’s reference to ‘the hour entre chien et loup… a transformative moment’, correlated closely with Corinne’s interest in the Japanese concept of ‘ma’ (the space between two structural parts) in art. The audience were clearly fascinated with Corinne’s insights and many attendees spoke with her after the official launch.

Corinne fills the space between one of her beautiful works and a captive audience

Sometimes it is good to be reminded of the space between things. To acknowledge ‘the silence between the notes that make the music’. (*) The combination of ‘notes’ that have been brought together to create Encounters in Kyoto has resulted in a precious anthology, where the sum is more than its parts.

May the Australia-Japan connection continue for many years to come.

(*) When Less is More: Japanese “MA” concept, minimalism and beyond” wawaza.com

Featured writing

WiK featured in national press

The Japan Times puts out a daily newsletter called Take 5 which takes the pick of current content and links to archived material. Item no. 5 in the Wednesday Sept 25 edition was of particular interest for WiK, as you can see in the piece below…
5. Foreign writers in Japan, a century apart 

In the Books section, Jason James explores British author William Plomer’s 2½-year stay in Japan in the 1920s, during which he developed a complex relationship with the country, loving its theater and culture but hating the rising tide of nationalism. Plomer was ahead of his time in many ways. His opposition to racism is one example, but he also decried the “enslavement of women” in Japan, as well as the frequency of suicides, which he described as “annoyingly common.” Both these themes feature strongly in “Paper Houses,” his 1929 Japan-themed volume of short stories, writes James. In the buildup to World War II, Plomer wrote, “I detest their tendency to nationalistic paranoia and their particular politico-religious superstitions …  which, if persisted in, will have terrible results.”
Author William Plomer had many close Japanese friends and lovers, and the utmost respect for Japan’s culture, but became alarmed by the spread of fascism. | THOMAS KILBURN
Contributing writer Stephen Mansfield recalls acclaimed Japan writer Donald Richie lamenting the lack of an English-language literary salon in the country, an omission that forced him to live “alone in the library of my skull.” Were Richie alive today, Mansfield says, he would likely be a fully paid-up member of Writers in Kyoto, a group of authors whose influence is already being felt in literary circles.Founded by writer John Dougill in 2015, Writers in Kyoto was formed with the purpose of creating, they say, a “sense of community” to “help foster a literary culture for published English-language authors associated with the city.” Mansfield finds plenty to praise in their new collection, with its writing “by turns studied, witty and rancorous.”

Featured writing

Hello World – Anime Kyoto

Kyoto has long been seen as a magical locus for fantastical happenings. Not only is it the cultural heart of the nation, but it has a rich legacy of the unseen. This is after all the home of ancestral spirits, of Daimonji, of Inari and Tenjin and a host of Buddhist deities. It is a city of power spots and time slips, where the supernatural is an integral part of the religious heritage. History is very much present in the fabric of the city.

This makes Kyoto popular with anime artists, who use the city as a base for imaginative flights of fancy. Inari Konkon and Uchouten Kazoku (Eccentric Family) are just two of the anime films to exploit the otherworldly nature of the city. Now comes news of a major new addition to the genre – Hello World – which takes a Matrix view of the ancient capital. What follows is an introduction by the Japan Times entitled ‘Hello World’: Kyoto as you’ve never seen it before.

HELLO WORLD by Matt Schley, Sept 18, 2019, Japan Times

If you’ve studied the basics of computer programming, you’ll probably recognize the phrase “hello world.” It’s the textbook-recommended line of text learners type into their first program, then delight as it pops up on screen.

The new anime film “Hello World” centers around a computer program, albeit one slightly more complicated than a line of text. The film opens in Kyoto in the year 2027, on what seems to be a normal day for high school student Naomi Katagaki (Takumi Kitamura), a young man who’s obsessed with reading and short on friends.

On his way home from school, Naomi encounters a mysterious older man (Tori Matsuzaka) who knows his name and everything about him. The man, it turns out, is an older version of Naomi himself. And here’s where the computer program comes in: Young Naomi’s entire world is actually a giant computer simulation, the Kyoto of the near past preserved down to the last detail for future generations to study.

Coming soon to Japan cinemas

The older Naomi has somehow hacked his consciousness into this computer simulation for a single purpose — to get his younger, computer-simulated self a girlfriend. The object of his affection is Ruri Ichigyo (Minami Hamabe), a similarly bookish, brusque girl who seems immune to what little charms Naomi has to offer. But get together they must, says Naomi 2, or his younger self won’t be able to protect Ruri from being injured and falling into a coma the night of the upcoming summer festival.

Meanwhile, as Team Naomi begins to alter the timeline, the computer simulation’s anti-corruption software — which takes the form of creepy, hunchbacked creatures wearing fox masks — enters the picture, trying to put things back the way they were by force.

What’s the point, you may be asking, of the older Naomi trying to change the past if it’s all just a computer simulation? Without getting into spoiler territory, let’s just say the dividing line between these two worlds is less solid than it initially appears.

The hazy border between flesh-and-blood worlds and computer-generated ones is a well-worn theme for “Hello World” director Tomohiko Ito, best known for helming popular anime series “Sword Art Online.” In this film, he stretches that theme to its limits, building to a climax that will either thrill or frustrate depending on how much you value comprehensibility (if someone could explain the final shot to me, that’d be great, thanks).

But while the ideas get complex, Ito and screenwriter Mado Nozaki never forget to ground their story around its characters. The interactions between Naomi and his grown-up counterpart are well-written and charming. The same goes for young Naomi and Ruri, whose unlikely relationship blossoms in a way that doesn’t feel forced. Small details keep our heroes’ personalities in mind: When bookworm Naomi receives baddy-busting powers, he doesn’t wield a gun or sword, but a giant enemy-thwapping book.

A significant portion of the characters’ charm comes from designer Yukiko Horiguchi, known for Kyoto Animation works like “Lucky Star” and “Tamako Market.” The characters in “Hello World” are animated in CG, a method that’s been making serious inroads in anime production. With a few exceptions aside, one serious roadblock in replicating the appeal of hand-drawn anime in CG has been the uninspiring character designs. I’m still not 100 percent on-board for the whole CG thing, but “Hello World” is one of the best-looking examples I’ve seen to date.

****************

For the official trailer, see this link on Youtube

Featured writing

Oysters to Die For (Simon Rowe)

‘Fragrant Harbor’ they called it. But Hong Kong was anything but fragrant the night Poh Seng Pang flew in. The air outside the terminal was dank, vegetative—like the smell of the Singapore River in wet season, or the streets of the Jurong Wholesale Market after a deluge. Poh found it strangely comforting.

He checked his Citizen Quartz Titanium; almost dinnertime in Singapore. Betty would be taking first customers at her small chicken-rice stand inside the Hawkers Centre. He tried not to eat on the plane; ‘airline food’ was an oxymoron and it gave him constipation. But this time he’d missed his wife’s lunch in the rush to the airport and had reluctantly accepted the airline offerings; a decision he now regretted as he stood clutching his small overnight bag on the concourse. 

Beyond the terminal, rain fell. With no wind to speak of, it drifted down in an almost vertical fashion across the runway, hangars and the harbor beyond. A black Toyota Lexus sat idling at the end of the taxi rank, its exhaust steaming the night air. The driver was old-school—silver crew cut, permanent scowl, a real toothpick-chewer. His gaze met with Poh’s in the rear view mirror. He lowered his newspaper and the rear passenger door clicked. Poh pulled on the handle and climbed in. They exchanged single-syllable greetings and the car moved away from the curb to join the swirl of courtesy buses, catering trucks, rental cars and limousines leaving Chek Lap Kok island for Kowloon and the night beyond. 

Poh was feeling pensive tonight. This would be his last assignment. On his return to Singapore, he would formally tender his resignation. At 58, he was getting too old to be a “shipping agent”. 

He was looking forward to retirement; he’d help Betty at the chicken-rice stand, maybe join a mahjong club, and take more of an interest in his daughter’s studies in Australia. Microbiology, wasn’t it? What did he know about microbiology? Except that you should always wash your hands after flying because, as his daughter insisted, ‘airplanes are crawling with bacteria.’

Poh yawned. 

The travelling, the hotel rooms, the waiting—the waiting was the real killer. He’d read somewhere that the average human spends a year of their life waiting. The only thing that made the waiting bearable, besides the money, was dining. He loved sampling the specialties of each town and city he visited: the dumplings in Taipei, Medan chicken curry in Sumatra, pork noodles in Sabah, suckling pig in Bali. Dining was his real pleasure, but only after a job was done, and even then it had to be a quick meal en route to the airport. 

He slumped back in the seat, listening to the timbre of the windshield wipers working away the rain. Why had he chosen this line of business? Actually, he hadn’t chosen this business; it had chosen him. His talent had been recognised early. The recruitment process had been quick, the training minimal and his first assignment issued within a few weeks. 

He had never botched a job. Granted, it was possible. Once, in a Kuching hotel, his gun had jammed. The target had woken with his call girl beside him and he’d had to knuckle-dust them both. Then he’d smothered the target with a pillow and walked. He never killed women—as a rule—and he was glad he’d never been put in a situation where he’d had to choose between a woman’s life and his own. It was another reason to retire.

Read the rest of this story in the book here
or more from Simon Rowe on Writers in Kyoto here.

Writers in focus

Plum Rains on Happy House (Michael Greco)

A Writers in Kyoto Interview with Michael Greco.

  1. Could you tell us briefly about how you came to Kyoto?

I’m the only person I know who actually came to Japan by boat, landing in 1983 after living several months in Russia, then the Soviet Union. My major at UC Irvine, near Los Angeles, was Russian, and after graduation I joined a student tour group, living several weeks in different Russian cities, and gradually traveling eastward on the Trans-Siberian Railroad. Another American in the group, who was far more organized than myself, had an edition of Lonely Planet that I began to browse, and I remember my jaw dropping upon reading I could make all of forty dollars an hour teaching English in Japan! Wow! Before learning this, my plan was to see Tokyo, then visit Australia, before returning home.

As the ship sat in Yokohama harbor waiting for processing, I asked a Japanese gentleman where Tokyo was, and he simply waved his hand at the enormous brown smudge in the distance. I remember thinking, ‘Oh, so it’s a lot like Los Angeles.’

But the smudge seduced me that first night. I was transfixed by the non-stop, electrifying neon of the early 80s. After all, I’d just spent five months in sleepy Russia, where the entertainment consisted of making friends, drinking, dancing and complaining of the food. I knew I would stay that first night in Shinbashi. The earthquake and subsequent catastrophes of 2011 prompted my family (we had a two-year-old at the time) to leave Tokyo and return to Los Angeles.

But Japan is in the blood. We came back in 2013, this time to Kyoto.

  • How and when did you take up writing? 

I started writing in my later years. I wasn’t ready when younger, wandering with story ideas that were only half-baked, unable to express myself through prose in any real way. I write now because I can’t not write. Just ask my family: If I’m not plugging away at something, I’m not much fun to be around.

I write for myself, not for the market. I have no idea what will sell, but as long as I’m happy with a story, I will show it. I don’t know if I’m going to make any money doing this, but I don’t write to get rich. I do it for another, deeper satisfaction. I also write for the person I know best: myself.

I’ve settled on comic fantasy as a literary genre. Humor with thoughtful undertones. Visionary. Metaphysical. Childish. But I’m not for children. I write about teens, but not necessarily for them. My sub-genre might be: weird fiction. But Amazon has yet to make a category for that.

  • Your novel Plum Rains on Happy House is set in a transmogrified Kyoto with a touch of the grotesque. How did you conceive of the idea? 

“Plum Rains on Happy House” is a result of personal experiences of living in Tokyo and not having any money. If you’re broke, you often live in a guest house (or gaijin house). I’ve lived in a few, though none were as interesting as the one in Kawasaki, which is the model for “Happy House”. I lived there, thinking the whole time: ‘Somebody has got to write a story about this craziness!’

Book cover of "Plum Rains on Happy House".
Book cover of “Plum Rains on Happy House”.

The novel is really a detective story. A fellow named Harry invites the protagonist, nicknamed the Ichiban, to Japan. But the residents of Happy House all deny any knowledge of this mysterious Harry. Readers may pick up on the references to the 1973 film The Wicker Man, about a policeman who is lured to a Scottish island to investigate the report of a missing child. It’s a game of deception. The islanders are playing with him. The paganism and the sexual activity the sanctimonious policeman finds so objectionable are simply part of the selection process—to see if he possesses the characteristics to burn in their wicker effigy so that the village will have subsequent successful harvests. In “Plum Rains on Happy House”, the Ichiban must undergo his own horrific sacrifice to appease the house.  The novel is a tribute to that remarkable film, and it has the same basic plot lines, but I’ve laid down hearty layers of satire and side stories.

In creating the residents of Happy House, I mingled the characteristics of a few of the unique people I’ve met over the decades in Tokyo and in Los Angeles. In some cases, I didn’t need to exaggerate at all. The residents of the house had to be distinctively quirky, and I didn’t know how bawdy things were going to become, or how much depravity would creep its way into the story. But once I had the characters, they took charge and I relegated myself to being, more or less, their stenographer.

I’ve mixed in a lot of elliptical dialogue I feel compliments the baffling idiosyncrasies of Japan that newcomers have a hard time handling. I’ve also structured the story within the sometimes vexing stages of culture shock, which frame the Ichiban’s misadventures, and eventual acceptance, of the house—which has its own plans. After all, the old guesthouse is haunted:

“Happy House is an amoeba everlasting, a floating world—capturing and sealing the self-indulgence of the red-light districts, the bordellos and the fleeting, delightful vulgarity of ancient Japan, an eternal time capsule of the flamboyant and the boorish.”

The dichotomy of substance versus form also plays an important part in underscoring the tension—in the way one swings a tennis racket, or walks in a swimming pool, or plays baseball, or eats particular dishes: What should predominate—what you are doing or how you are doing it?

On another level, the story examines language acquisition and the role of structure within the learning process. The residents all have their various opinions: As teachers, should English be taught through some kind of lock-step formula, or would one be better off approaching the pedagogy in a more hands-off manner, rather like painting? Everyone seems to have an opinion. The idea of structure comes to the forefront again when discussing what one character, Sensei, calls the hidden structure of the house, which, like the neighborhood (or any cityscape in Japan) appears as an amorphous sprawl. But look underneath this sprawl and one sees the organism. The randomness, or chaos, embraces a flexible, orderly structure, likening the house to an amoeba that has the ability to alter its shape. Similarly, this amoeba can be seen as a microcosm of Japan as a whole.

  • You have published and marketed your books yourself, I believe. Could you tell us about the experience?

Indie publishing is a great way to get your stories out there. I’ve only been doing it for a little over a year, but I’m happy having all this control over my own stuff. It’s taken a while, but now that I (somewhat) understand what I’m doing, I’m approaching publishers, just to gauge interest.

Through stores like Amazon, anyone can now market their own work. I’ve never taken a prose writing class. I wouldn’t know a support group from an A.A. meeting. I don’t know what a writers’ retreat is (though it sounds restful). I write alone. With a house pet—a gentle cat named Howard. I have friends that will read stuff for me, and I have an editor who will lend me his professional eyes. I often use Fiverr.com for book covers and for formatting. No self-publishing workshops for me (even though the half-day sessions are only $79—and what a great way to get yourself out there; what’s wrong with me?)

I write alone, mumbling incoherently as I do so. “Mom says you’re talking to yourself again,” my daughter will yell through the door of my tiny study. I’m an indie writer. I’m self-employed. The mumbling—it’s a staff meeting. Sometimes I have to raise my voice to make a point. But she can hear me in the kitchen, which is directly below. They’re always lively meetings. Lots to discuss.

I also do all my own stunts. But never intentionally. I lack exercise because I spend that time writing. It’s what writers do—we spend all this time with ourselves when we should be out exercising and considering our overall health picture. But how can I leave the study when my new story-baby is so underdeveloped, so sickly? Revision is the only remedy. Lots of rewriting.

James Michener said: “I’m not a good writer, but I’m an excellent rewriter.”

The stories get better, tighter, with revision. If we want to achieve a level of accomplishment in the world of story-telling, then all the alone time is merely the price of admission.

  • Finally, what are your favourite books about Japan, and why?

I couldn’t get my hands on all that much in the 80s, but Reischauer’s “The Japanese” was the most enlightening. I remember enjoying a few tongue-in-cheek books on getting by in The Big Mikan. In the early 90s I was impressed by Karl Van Wolferin’s “The Enigma of Japanese Power”, as well as Alex Kerr’s “Dogs and Demons” later on. Recently, because I’m ignorant of the history and culture of Kyoto, I picked up John Dougill’s “Kyoto: A Cultural History” — and it whet my appetite for more on this captivating city.

I’ve read a lot of Japanese fiction, but I’m always on the lookout for comedic or satirical perspectives on this country we live in. “Plum Rains on Happy House” is a somewhat skewering lampoon on both Japan and those Non-Japanese that have chosen to live here. The story is a twisted, genuine way of looking back at ourselves, employing (I hope) memorable characters that make memorable tales.

I think that’s my job, my goal—to write characters and stories that are absurd, violent, childish, but that resonate with truth.  

Plum Rains on Happy House:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQ3R68

Michael Greco’s Short Biography

California ex-pat Michael Greco as lived in Asia for over 25 years, and his stories are dappled with the character and spirit of Asian communities. He teaches writing in university and has jotted extensively about the joy and frustration of the creative process. He has written for the Asahi Shinbun newspaper in Tokyo, and received his master’s degree in theoretical linguistics, in Los Angeles. He is a regular contributor to The Japan Times and the online journal The Font. Michael lives in Kyoto, Japan, with his wife, daughter, and a honey-sweet cat named Howard. He uses Japan as a springboard for his frequent forays to other regions of the world, often with his 10-year-old as a travel companion. 

Writers in focus

Embracing the Nijojo Circuit (Jann Williams)

Running is not an activity you associate with my family. So says my brother Rod.

This is true in recent decades. Vigorous exercise has not been our forte. That changed when I was lured to join the regular circuit runners around Nijojo (Nijo Castle) in Kyoto. A 2 km circuit that encircles the castle, its moat and the surrounding hedge.

Aerobic exercise has a long and positive connection with creative writing. Walking is recommended as the most natural way to enhance creativity and stimulate insights.

I love to walk, and now I love to run. As well as helping my fitness and ability to climb mountains, it has opened new worlds to delight and stimulate the senses.

Early morning is the best time to run I find. As do many others, of all ages and levels of fitness. These companions, especially those in their elder years, motivate me to start the day in a good way.

Most of us run or walk anti-clockwise except for one gentleman who defies the norm. He is yet to say hello when he passes by. I hope that will change, as it has with others as I become a regular.

Every day is different around the castle, the moat and the hedge. Many surprises have revealed themselves since I started running around 12 months ago.

What first seemed like a biological desert of hedge and lawn, with planted Sakura and pine trees, has turned out to be far from it. The Nijojo circuit provides homes for many.

As the seasons progress different plants and animals present themselves, often in subtle ways. It is important to have your eyes and mind wide open so not to miss them.

My most exciting discovery has been the thousands of spiral orchids (Spiranthes sinensis) growing between the moat and the hedge during tsuyu, the rainy season.

Thousands of spiders use the hedge as habitat, their flat extended webs catching the raindrops like ephemeral jewels.

In the heat of summer the cicadas sing. The hedge provides resting spots for their metamorphosis. They are beautiful to behold.

Along the front of the castle, where there is a fence rather than a hedge, myriad mushrooms complete their life cycle and disappear until the next suitable season.

On the water two herons hunt, ducks swim above and carp below, water-striders lightly touch the surface. In summer, water plants are profuse.

Profusion is also found in abundance in Spring as the Sakura burst forth with their canopy covering floral display.

And then there is the entrancing interplay of light and shadow, changing with the time of day, the amount of cloud and the position of the sun. The shadows of the pine trees in the bright light are striking. So too the glorious orange/pink bark touched with the morning rays.

Pine trees also feature in my favourite conditions to run – just after it has rained. There is something very special about water droplets on pine needles.

The castle, the moat and the hedge. My ‘go to’ place for running and revelation when I find myself in Kyoto.

Perhaps it is in the blood after all. My brother Rod ran a world peace marathon in Russia in his youth. Now it is my turn to pound the pavement.

All photos taken by Jann Williams on her runs around Nijojo.
For other experiences see:  https://elementaljapan.com/.

Writers in focus

Interactive Story (Kevin Ramsden)

Hello fellow WiK members, and a very happy, hot and humid holiday season to you all. I’m not sure about your good selves, but at this time of the year, in Kyoto especially, I find it hard to generate enough energy or even enthusiasm for anything, including lengthy pieces of writing. It is at this time that I often turn to the short, short story, usually in an attempt to grow ideas toward kickstarting a broader project. With this in mind, I was hoping that you might be interested in joining me in a simple collaborative endeavor, mainly for fun, but also with an eye to completing a piece. Attached here, you will find the first (roughly) 1,000 words of a short story I have started. What I would like you to do, is provide me with a short synopsis (up to 100 words) of how you would see the second part developing. I already have three possible continuances in mind, but I am very interested to see how others might think. Of course, you can suggest both ideas and extra characters, and any other details that take your fancy.

OK. I’d like to set a deadline of August 31st for submissions, and you can contact me directly with your input on my email address: readers4readers@gmail.com

Look forward to hearing from you.
Kevin


Here Comes Kenji

Two-thirds into his first beer of the night, James raised his head from the reading of his newspaper to gaze absently around the barely populated pub.  Purposefully avoiding eye contact with any of the other early evening patrons, his attention settled on the large flat screen TV high on the wall to the right of the bar area, currently showing a baseball game between the Hanshin Tigers and Yomiuri Giants.  James had no interest in baseball.  Didn’t understand the game, its rules, or why it was so popular.  Judging by the way the other half dozen or so local punters littering this downtown joint were behaving, nor did they.  Nearly all were either staring into space, staring at their drinks, or staring, eyes closed, into their own souls. 

All save one.

Perched on a bar stool at the far end of the counter, and eyeing him intently through a soft drifting of cigarette smoke and dust motes, was a princess.  James straightened up in his chair and lifting his beer glass slowly to his lips, returned her look with a steady one of his own.

This was interesting.

Narrowing his eyes, the better to bring her face into focus, he struggled for signs of recognition.  She was certainly beautiful, undoubtedly self-assured, and making her interest in him blatantly obvious.  But he did not know her.  If they had met before, he most definitely would have remembered it.

Next move?

It was hers.  Sliding off the bar stool with a barely a sound, and plucking her wine glass up off the counter by its stem, she glided across the five meters or so distance between them like a swan on ice.  James now followed her progress with a little uncertainty.  What was happening here?  Then she was there.  Standing directly in front of him, looking down with an amused smile on her perfectly shaped, gloss red lips. She murmured,

“Americajin?” 

“No, English”, James replied cautiously, “You?”

“Very Japanese”, she responded with a laugh, inclining her head to one side and casually sweeping strands of her immaculately bobbed hair behind one ear.  James was as close to speechless he had ever been, but managed to gather himself enough to extend an invitation,

“Would you like to join me?”

With a small nod of acceptance, and another effortlessly seductive smile, she lowered herself into the chair opposite his, taking a long sip from her glass before slowly placing it on the table.  James took a quick look around the bar to see if anyone else was bearing witness to this, but nothing had really changed. No one seemed to be showing any interest in how this little scene was playing out, except for perhaps the bartender, who, despite fiddling with a beer tap, was actually casting furtive glances in their direction.  James knew this dude from the few times he had visited this pub before after first arriving in Kyoto a couple of months earlier.  He was a pretty cool young Japanese guy with decent English, and as they were close to the same age, they’d chatted a bit about this and that while James was being served.  James raised his eyebrows a couple of time to register the universal code for surprise, but the bartender’s expression came back a little flat, in fact almost hostile.  Strange. 

Still, James had something else to occupy his mind with right now, and she was in a very friendly mood.  The conversation went back and forth easily, and very soon James began to relax into it.  She told him her name, Reina, and of her love for speaking English and travel.  He explained why he had come to Japan, and a little of his previous life in the UK.  She talked of her hometown in Osaka, and how she had moved to Kyoto for work.  He brought up the difficulty he was having nailing down decent employment, but was confident something great would turn up in time.  Pretty soon, and much to James’s surprise, they found themselves exchanging phone numbers and LINE details and were even chatting over the idea of leaving and moving on to another more interesting hostelry. All in all, they appeared to be getting along just swimmingly … until. 

James had noticed the hint of a tattoo peeking out from under the short sleeve of the blouse she was wearing, and intrigued by something he had not seen on any of the young Japanese women he encountered thus far, decided to casually comment on it,

“That’s an interesting bit of artwork on your arm, Reina, can I see the rest of it?”

Getting surprisingly flustered and even a little panicked, she tugged on the shirt sleeve in an attempt to hide it, and then rather abruptly stood up and muttering something in Japanese, made a short apologetic gesture and excused herself, claiming an urgent need to visit the toilet.  James sat back a little astonished by this sudden change in mood and events, and shaking his head, picked up their glasses and headed to the bar.  Maybe a fresh round of drinks would get things back on track. Obviously, he had struck a nerve, but couldn’t for the life of him figure out what the big issue was.

Arriving at the counter, he gave a little wave to catch the eye of the young bartender, who was nearly finished serving another customer, and got a curt ‘in a minute’ nod in return. While waiting for his turn, he swiveled from side to side to check if Reina was returning from the toilet, and to clock the rest of the clientele.  This time, far from ignoring his presence, more than several sets of eyes were firmly fixed on him, and one or two faces even bore expressions of intense hatred.  What the ….?  James did not like the feel of this one bit.  At that moment, the bartender rocked up, and before James could get a word out, spoke low and hard,

“I think you need to leave, man”

James was shocked,

“What’re you talking about, mate. I haven’t done anything”

The bartender shook his head,

“That girl you’re with.  She’s not yours, she’s not for you”

James let out a nervous laugh,

“I’m not with her, mate.  We’ve only just met.  What’s the big problem?”

The bartender leant forward and hissed,

“Listen!  I’m trying to do you a favor. Everyone in here knows her, and they know her friends.  I think a call has already been made.” 

And now in a raised voice.

“Seriously, you just need to go!!”

At that moment, two things happened simultaneously.  Reina, who had now reappeared, stood shaking with both hands clamped to her mouth, and the door to the bar flew open, ricocheting off the faux brick wall with a resounding bang and a shattering of glass.  Coming right through it was a very large, very hard looking Japanese guy with a less than genial look about him.

The bartender stepped back and muttered under his breath,

“Majikayo, Kenji daze” – “Oh shit, here comes Kenji”.

Writers in focus

On Izumi Kyoka (David Joiner)

Although Kanazawa is recognized by UNESCO as a “City of Crafts and Traditional Arts,” it has also produced many great writers over the years, and, adding to this its impressive literary halls, museums, memorials, statues, celebrations, and even occasional author-themed foods, could well be considered a “City of Literature,” too. Izumi Kyoka is Kanazawa’s most celebrated writer – at least within Japan.

Izumi Kyoka 1873 – 1939

Kyoka was born in Kanazawa in 1873, only twenty years after Japan was forced to open to the West after 250 years of seclusion. As one might imagine, it was a time of great change throughout the country. Kyoka lived in Kanazawa until he was seventeen years old, and though he was forced to come back on a few occasions, his home thereafter became Tokyo – Japan’s literary center in his day and now – and for several years Zushi, on the Kanagawa coast, where he went with his wife, Ito Suzu, a former Kagurazaka geisha, to recover his health. Despite the short time he lived in Kanazawa, as well as the negative feelings he held toward the city, he set a number of his works there.

I became interested in Kyoka’s work due to a somewhat unique situation: he’s from the Japanese city where I moved to several years ago and expect to live the rest of my life. And although I read his stories before moving here, I was drawn to them more deeply after becoming a resident of Kanazawa.

It’s also of personal interest that some of his works are set in areas I might pass through every day. Visiting Renshoji, the temple on Mt. Utatsu where Kyoka set Rukinsho (“The Heartvine,” 1937), and the old castle moat where two characters from this story met while intending to drown themselves (as Kyoka and a local woman did in real life), is still possible today, though both places have changed in the years since he wrote it. Another of his Kanazawa stories is Kechou (“A Bird of a Different Feather,” 1897). This takes place near the Tenjin Bridge along the Asano River and on Mt. Utatsu, but at a time when those areas were populated by the “polluted” and disenfranchised: butchers, leatherworkers, prostitutes, grave diggers, corpse handlers, and other social outcastes. Because various temples, graveyards, winding streets, and even some houses still exist in those areas from that time, one can imagine what the river and mountain might have looked like when Kechou took place. Other Kyoka stories and novels also have Kanazawa as their settings, and whenever I come across them I feel my roots to the city grow deeper.

To me, the power and mystery of Kyoka’s stories are undeniable. While I admit having had only limited success reading his work in Japanese, Charles Shiro Inouye’s two collections of translated Kyoka stories are excellent, and what they transmit to me in my reading of them is of the same quality and effect as my favorite Japanese literature (also in translation): Kawabata’s Snow Country and Sound of the Mountain; Tanizaki’s The Makioka Sisters; Shiga’s A Dark Night’s Passing; Soseki’s Grass on the Wayside and Kokoro; Mishima’s Confessions of a Mask and The Temple of the Golden Pavilion; Abe’s The Woman in the Dunes; Nakagami’s The Cape and Other Stories from the Japanese Ghetto; Ibuse’s Black Rain; Minakami’s Temple of Wild Geese and Bamboo Dolls of Echizen – among others. (Many of these authors knew Kyoka and revered him as a writer.) What differentiates Kyoka from all of these writers, his contemporaries as well as those who came after him, are both his pure Japanese-ness as a storyteller, which is to say the lack of influence in his writing from outside of Japan, particularly when western realism was in vogue, and also his writing style, which enabled him to develop an aesthetic that is arguably more surreal, more sensual, and more linguistically sophisticated than any other Japanese writer. His writing is often strange in the way that dreams are strange, yet his narratives are controlled, often intricately plotted, and expertly lead his readers through what typically are shadowy, otherworldly, deeply nostalgic emotional landscapes.

The characters and plot of my own novel, Kanazawa, present deliberate instances of intertextuality, where certain scenes I’ve written interact with certain scenes in Kyoka’s stories (and with his own life). Readers who have read Kyoka may recognize these instances, or at least trace some aspects of their lineage, in my novel. I could never hope to achieve what Kyoka did in his stories, stylistically or literarily; I’ve merely tried to weave something interesting together and add a layer to the ways my novel can be read, understood, and enjoyed. But one can still read Kanazawa without first reading Kyoka, I suppose one can also, if one wishes to, experience the same sense of recognition in reverse – by reading my novel first and then seeking out Kyoka’s works.

If readers enjoy my novel, or even only parts of it, and are curious to discover an important influence on its creation (and on my own life in Kanazawa), I want to point them to the following works.

Charles Shiro Inouye’s three publications on Kyoka are masterful. Two are collections of translated stories – equal to more famous literary translations by Edward Seidensticker* and Ivan Morris, but for some reason more quietly trumpeted than theirs – and one a critical biography. The former are In Light of Shadows (University of Hawaii Press, 2004) and Japanese Gothic Tales (University of Hawaii Press, 1996), the latter The Similitude of Blossoms (Harvard University Press, 1998).

Donald Keene’s chapter on Izumi Kyoka in Dawn to the West: Japanese Literature of the Modern Era (Columbia University Press, 1998) has long served as an excellent addition to what is available in English on Kyoka and his writing. There is general agreement that Keene’s work has been of particular importance to the revival of interest in Kyoka’s writing.

Cody Poulton’s Spirits of Another Sort is another excellent source of translation (plays, mostly, of which Kyoka wrote more than five dozen), and of critical and biographical material.

The more recent A Bird of a Different Feather, translated by Peter Bernard, beautifully illustrated by Nakagawa Gaku, and appended with several short but interesting essays by Japanese Kyoka scholars, is also worth readers’ time.

While other short publications deal with the creative products of what Akutagawa Ryunosuke referred to as “Kyoka’s World,” these are the ones I’ve read and come back to often with greatest pleasure and interest.

As Emmitt’s mother-in-law suggests in Kanazawa, if foreign readership of Kyoka’s work spreads, perhaps it will “help preserve something that’s in danger of disappearing.” I share her belief, and also hope that it might lead to Kyoka’s work taking a more prominent place in Japan’s highly regarded literary canon.

[*Seidensticker translated Kyoka’s “A Tale of Three Who Were Blind” (1956) which appeared in Modern Japanese Literature (Grove Press, 1994), ed. Donald Keene.]

David is working on a novel set in Kanazawa. For an extract of the first chapter, see here: https://writersinkyoto.com/2016/07/novel-extract-david-joiner/

Autumn Light (Pico Iyer)

A book review by John Dougill

Most Kyoto residents will be familiar with The Lady and the Monk, published in 1991, in which a foreigner in search of Zen finds unexpected love. Many may have finished the book wondering what happened to the couple. Reader, they married. Now, nearly thirty years later, we are presented with a follow-up. It’s not a sequel the author insists, but a counterpart – an autumn love story to balance the springtime mood of the earlier work. Think Linklater’s Sunrise Trilogy in lush prose.

Cover of Autumn LightThe title is suggestive of the book’s theme, which has to do with aging and the relentless march of time. Indeed, autumn here is championed as Japan’s quintessential season. ‘Cherry blossoms, pretty and frothy as schoolgirls’ giggles, are the face the country likes to present to the world… but it’s the reddening of the maple leaves under a blaze of ceramic-blue skies that is the place’s secret heart.’ In traditional poetry the compelling beauty of autumn light is underpinned by awareness of the shortening days, suggestive of the Japanese aesthetics of sabi (forlornness) and the tradition of mono no aware (the pathos of beauty’s transience`).

Death, dying and dementia haunt the pages of the book, casting an autumn light on the proceedings as Iyer tells of family matters and aging table-tennis partners. An elderly mother in California, a mother-in-law in her dotage, a step-daughter involved with the wrong type of man. Then there’s the curious case of the estranged brother-in-law, whose Jungian studies go hand-in-hand with a refusal to engage with his family. It’s a surprisingly revealing book for an author who likes to treat Japan as a form of private retreat in contrast to his overseas assignments and public engagements. It means that he keeps a low profile while in Nara, where he focusses on his writing (unfortunately for WiK as we have been unable to book him as a speaker). Since most of the book is centred around his home in Nara, with occasional excursions to Kyoto, this second autobiographical work surely marks him out as Kansai’s prime creative foreign writer.

The first time I came across Pico Iyer was while reading a review of Remains of the Day (another autumnal work). The writer made the astonishing claim that the story offered excellent insight into the Japanese character, and such was my surprise I checked to see who the author was, wondering whether the name was some kind of joke. Since then I have followed his career with interest, and in the intervening years he has won a massive fan base around the globe (his Ted talks have been seen by over three million people). It’s worth speculating as to what underlies his appeal, apart from the self-evident honesty and sensitivity. The reflective asides can catch one unawares but they invariably stimulate thought, and there is much to be admired in the poetic, sometimes cryptic, style of language: ‘If autumn is a religion, it’s something you recite – or see with your eyes closed – more than put into words.’

Above all, Iyer is a keen observer, which may be why Japan suits him so well, for he is an outsider with no mastery of the language. In his observations he scratches away at the surface of life, probing for the essence of what it means to be human. ‘How to hold on to the things we love even though we know that we and they are dying. How to see the world as it is, yet find light within that truth.’ And here we see the subtle double meaning of the book’s title. Yes, autumn induces melancholy, but within that one must strive for positivity, just as in the face of aging the elderly folk in his table tennis club strive to improve their shots. Perhaps the Japanese with their stoicism have something to teach in this regard, for gambatte (do your best) is the national mantra and sacrificing self for the good of the whole leads to the well-being of the community. The ping-pong club provide an example.

There is not much action, but plenty of drama in the book. ‘Now I see it’s in the spaces where nothing is happening that one has to make a life,’ the author reflects. The sentence is suggestive of the Japanese aesthetic of ma (space), by which the emptiness within the bowl is what matters to the tea drinker just as the unpainted parts matters to the charcoal ink artist. How do we imbue everyday banality with significance, without letting life slip us by? Love and compassion are Iyer’s unspoken answers, and it is these qualities that he admires in spiritual teachers such as the Dalai Lama and the Tofuku-ji Zen master, even though their answers to life’s problems may seem commonplace. ’All this world is but a dream, be thou the joyful dreamer,’ sang The Incredible String Band in the 1960s, and there is something of that spirit in Iyer’s musings on his ‘autumn light’. Perhaps it represents acceptance on his part, and the book concludes with him sitting contentedly on his small balcony in Nara counting his blessings. A happy end, it seems…

‘But at my back I always hear
Time’s winged chariot hurrying near.’

Kyoto Literature Award

While Writers in Kyoto is dedicated to local writers publishing in English, the following may be interesting to anybody who writes in Japanese:

The First Kyoto Literature Award invites writers from all over the world to submit a complete, full-length novel in Japanese on the theme of “Kyoto”.

There are three categories, “General”, “Students”, and “Overseas” with slightly different rules as to length etc. The winner of the “General” category will receive a large cash prize and the winning novel will be published. So, if you are interested in entering, polish up that Japanese novel of yours and submit it. The deadline is September 30th, 2019.

For more information, see the website of the Kyoto Literature Award. Good luck!

And just in case you think “this cannot be done”, see our article on a prize-winning Japanese novel written by a foreigner: https://writersinkyoto.com/2015/08/ichigensan-extract/

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