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Kyoto Connections

Verse and jazz by merchants of the cool, Gary Tegler and Robert Yellin

(Review by John Dougill) Last night our friends at Kyoto Journal put on a spoken word event to coincide with the wonderful exhibition they mounted of foreign artists in Kyoto (until Feb 18). The venue was an attractive and spacious machiya, or former merchant’s house, and the display of artistic talent was quite stunning, ranging from calligraphy through installations and contemporary artwork (several of the artists have been exhibited in prestigious institutions abroad).

Calligraphy by Alex Kerr
(photos by John Dougill)

It was in this remarkable setting that performers entertained a crowd of some 40 people for over two hours. It was very much a throw-back to the great Kyoto Connection events of the 1980s and 1990s, indeed MC and organiser Ken Rodgers made a conscious link with the now legendary showcasing of talent by evoking the spirit of the past and suggesting this was a continuation – no. 142 in an ongoing series. To emphasise the point, he produced a broad sheet with pictures and articles about the Connections of the past – music, poetry, taiko, dance, comedy, readings and magic, so much magic. How the memories came flooding back.

Amongst the gems in Ken’s broad sheet is an article on Foreign Writers in/on Kyoto, in which he gives a broad survey of the literature ending with, I’m pleased to say, Writers in Kyoto Anthology 3. It was also good to see WiK members prominent among the performers (8 out of 12). Opening the first set was Gary Tegler who read in his melodious voice a piece by Pico Iyer. He also closed the set with an inspired piece of improvisation to the trenchant lines of Robert Yellin’s verse, the latter of which was drawn from Robert’s poetic self of thirty years ago when pottery first fired his imagination.

Judith Clancy’s humorous account of ‘Life in the Slow Lane’, based around her experiences at the local swimming pool, elicited many a knowing chuckle from the audience and was reminscent of the table-tennis club in Pico Iyer’s Autumn Light. Kevin Ramsden repeated the performance of his award-winning rap, Kyotomojo, which he had previously recited at WiK’s bonenkai in December. Most of the audience had not heard it before and were delighted by the rhythm and the patter. In his introduction Kevin noted how it had been written over an evening’s drinking, inspired by the spirit/s of place. He also expressed how pleased he was to win the Local Prize of the Writers in Kyoto Competition, and how much he appreciated the pottery prize given to him by Robert Yellin as he was able to drink from it.

Kevin Ramsden demonstrates drinking from Robert Yellin’s pottery, while Ken Rodgers to his right demonstrates the dazzling shirt he wore for Kyoto Connection.

The second set included a thoughtful reading by Lisa Wilcut of her piece on ‘Ukifune’s Window’, an imaginative rendering of the tragic princess from the later chapters of Genji Monogatari. This was followed by John Dougill’s short piece on his first visit to Kyoto in 1975, and how a decade later he came upon the Kyoto Connection while isolated in Kanazawa. Rebecca Otowa then gave ad lib account of the lead story in her newly published collection, The Mad Kyoto Shoe Swapper. Her on the spot decision to retell the imaginative piece of fiction (rather than read it out) was more than justified by the way the audience reacted to the unfurling of the story, with people eagerly wondering how it might end.

Congratulations to Kyoto Journal for putting on such a special exhibition, and double congratulations to Ken Rodgers for another magical Kyoto Connection!

Winter scene by Brian Williams

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For an account of a dinner talk by Judith Clancy, see here. For a piece of fiction by Kevin Ramsden, click here. For Robert Yellin on saké, poetry and pottery see here or here or here. For Lisa Wilcut on a year of seasonal haiku, see here. For a self-introduction by Rebecca Otowa see here, and for one by John Dougill click here. For pieces by Ken Rodgers, see this travel article, or this D-Day memoir, or this celebration of Kyoto Journal’s 30th anniversary.

An attentive audience listens to Lisa Wilcut (following photos by Ken Rodgers)
Max Dodds accompanied by a child prodigy harmonica player
Rebecca Otowa ad libbing her way through ‘The Mad Kyoto Shoe Swapper’
Reaction to John Dougill’s short piece
Charles Roche tells a rapt audience of his love affair with woodwork
(photo John Dougill)
Robert Yellin and Gary Tegler, playing out the first set to a packed house

Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

Last Snow (Kimura)

The Last Snow in Kyoto
by Marianne Kimura

I wrote this hoping that the last big snow in Kyoto (January 26, 2019) will NOT after all be the last snow ever in Kyoto. (It is so far, one year and four days later, but who is counting?)

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Over several years, the snow had undoubtedly become less and less frequent.  And that winter, waking up to see whiteness all around was just a memory, but several times in December still, flakes appeared in the air and danced around tantalizingly, though there was little or no accumulation. Finally, though, one late January afternoon the snow started falling and this time the heavy flakes seemed serious and single-minded in their purpose.

By 8 or 9pm, the streetlights gave off enough of a glow to see that undeniably the world was covered with a magical layer in sparkling white. And still it was coming down.

By 10pm, her daughter, (a college student and not a little girl), was hurriedly putting on her shoes and coat to go on a walk. Her son, a junior high school student, was grinning with excitement and putting his shoes and coat on too.

She, their mother, could not possibly let them go alone at this unreasonable hour.

Outside snow was swirling, flakes busily falling, weather poetry for the snow-starved, the yuki-deprived.

They set off for Shisendo, the retreat with the entrance gates set back in a grove of bamboo trees. Shisendo is in Ichijoji, around 40 minutes away. But after 20 minutes, she noticed that the snowflakes were thinning out, though they were still clearly big fat flakes. She had wanted them to fall all through the night!

Mustn’t be greedy or dissatisfied. Must be grateful, she tells herself. Must post photos on facebook. Mustn’t think this is the last time to see snow. Must be hopeful.

They reach Shisendo and the delicate branches of the bamboo trees are sagging gracefully under centimeters of snow. However, the snow beneath them on the asphalt is slushy rather than powdery, the temperature bordering on too warm.

The entrance way to Shisendo, this year bereft of snow (photos by John Dougill)

The chochin, the paper lantern marking the entrance to Hachidai Shrine, is just 20 meters away up the hill. It hangs next to a grey stone torii gate. “Take my photo next to the lantern”, she begs her reluctant daughter, and runs through the slush to stand beside the softly radiant chochin, which has a dusting of pretty snow on it.

Forty minutes later, they are back in their house. The photo is immediately uploaded to Facebook and receives international acclaim from two friends just waking up in California.

In hindsight, that is bitter-sweet, of course, because that night was the last snowfall ever in Kyoto. With a tip of its blizzardy hat, the snow saluted her, and then it was gone, all melted by morning, though a few tsubaki branches in the garden had still a little white slush collected on their thick dark leaves.

Kyoto’s last snowman?

She guessed then that there would be no more snow, and indeed, this year, the weather is much too warm. It is as if she was reading the weather’s mind, as if it had been planning on quitting the snow business for a few years, intentionally running low on supplies and fulfilling its duties late if at all, and now it has finally closed up shop. 雪:閉店。

There are many photographers who wait for snow to fall in Kyoto, when they run to the famous temples and shrines to capture the scene before anyone has stepped on and corrupted the virgin snow. The steps of Kifune Jinja, for example, lined with striking red lanterns, are famously elegant and beautiful in newly fallen snow. What will these photographers do now?

And what will people who read poetry do when they come across all the tanka and haiku describing the centuries of snowy winters in Kyoto and in Japan? What will they think?

(The following haiku are by Basho and not necessarily about Kyoto, but the lack of snow this year affects the whole of Japan.)

雪と雪 今宵師走の 名月か
yuki to yuki/ koyoi shiwasu no/ meigetsu ya

The snow and snow.
This evening would have been
The great moon of December.

初雪や  いつ大仏の  柱立
hatsu-yuki ya/ itsu daibutsu no/ hashira-date

The first snow,
When is the pillar set up
For the Great Buddha?

(poems taken from http://www.masterpiece-of-japanese-culture.com/literatures-and-poems/haiku/matsuo-basho/haiku-poems-winter-examples-matsuo-basho)

Kyoto as it used to be – winter solstice 2008

Writings about Kyoto, whether by Japanese or foreign observers

The Old Man (Richard Holmes)

The Old Man on the Hill
by Richard Holmes

I could see him through the pillars that looked down over the charred remains. Smoke rose up languidly from debris scattered everywhere, interrupted by the occasional flame that would shoot out unexpectedly. He stood there in his pajamas and hospital slippers, staring vacantly through gaunt, sunken eyes at what was left of his home. His face was blank, his mind visibly elsewhere. He was there, but not all there.

I live at the bottom of a cul-de-sac on Yoshida-yama Mountain, an exaggeration of a name for a bump on the landscape. This hillock affords me something precious, something you can’t easily get in a big city – silence. I swear the noisiest thing in the neighborhood is the chirping of the ‘uguisu’ bush warbler that comes back every year in early spring to nest in the same tree and find a mate. I just love this bird. He sounds so ecstatic when he finds a mate, this year’s true love. I’m very aware of sudden outbursts of noise in these parts. Anything out of the ordinary will grab my attention, especially, the sound of courtship on this graying hill.

Late in the afternoon I heard the sound of crackling and the agitated shouting of a few concerned locals. They should be concerned. Almost all of the houses in Kyōto are packed dangerously close together and are potential fire traps. My neighborhood is no exception.

The flames curled and licked up high along the walls of the Morinos’ house on the corner and gained a threatening hold on the eaves. Fortunately, they were quickly put out by gallant men with hard hats and hoses who arrived in what seemed like a jiffy. The fire services move very fast in emergencies like these in Kyōto. As soon as they arrived they turned off all the water in the neighborhood to divert it to their firefighting efforts. This, however, severed the lifeline to mine as I had been using the garden hose to help put out the flames. We could do nothing. We were thankful for their timely arrival but helpless as the flames spread unchecked towards the Nakamuras. We were next in line.

A crowd soon gathered from outlying areas of the neighborhood. “For crying out loud, put out those damn cigarettes!” I begged them as they feasted on the flames. Most grudgingly agreed to do so but they left behind ash and cigarette stubs everywhere on the ground in front of my house. They could see I was upset with their indifference to the tragedy that was unfolding before their very eyes. After all, their homes were not about to become unwilling casualties. When everything had died down at the end of evening, they dispersed. I could sense they’d had their fill. Enough excitement for one day, I suppose. They would shortly be back in the warmth of their homes in time for a hot supper and a cold beer to quench their thirst.

From what I’d heard, the old man and his elderly sister had lived there for quite a while before we moved to the hill sixteen years ago. (Or, was it seventeen? The longer you live here, the more it seems that time stands still.) Come to think of it, I couldn’t ever recall having seen the two of them outside, not even once. Their presence was an enigma for the locals, too. I vaguely recollect someone talking about them in tones so hushed that you could barely make out what was being said. Maybe they just didn’t know who the old folks were and were too embarrassed to admit it.

The tell-tale signs were out of sight to all except me. The window from my office offered a clear view of the second floor where the old man spent his days. I could see piles of plastic bags stacked up high. Then, there was the kerosene stove with that large kettle sputtering away on top almost all year round. And he would often lean back and stretch out his scrawny arms to empty ashtrays filled to the brim and the rancid contents of his urine bottle onto the tiled roof of the verandah outside. Piles of cigarette butts clogged the rain gutter and sometimes overflowed into the garden below during late afternoon squalls. Even from the comfort of my desk, I could make out faint clouds of mosquitoes hovering above this gutter, most likely checking out the nice moist and juicy breeding ground.

I remember him standing there one day in front of the wide-open window in just his long johns and undershirt. He brought both of his hands up to his mouth and let out a loud “Cock-a-doodle-doo!” I smiled. “This heat’s obviously gone to his head. Definitely cuckoo,” I thought. The comedy of his delivery from that elevated fleapit somehow softened the urgency of the inevitable ticking away slowly but menacingly in the wings. Sometimes you can’t see a red light even if it is flashing right in front of you.

I ought to have reported all that I’d accidentally seen to the police or the local ward office. In our neighborhood, we all pitch in at community events; but, at the same time, we cherish our privacy. We prefer to keep ourselves to ourselves as we lead our peaceful lives in the quiet of our own little yama. We don’t like being disturbed. We also don’t appreciate a nosy so-and-so who pries into other people’s business. But, what if I’d done the right thing and told someone? Things might have turned out quite differently. What if…? Such is the agonizing luxury of hindsight.

The sound of cracking timber filled the air as beams ignited, split and burst open. Tiles exploded everywhere and fell to the ground in random thumps. Most landed inside the burning house and within the safe confines of the garden; but one large piece flew over and landed with an abrupt thud on the balcony of my home, just a stone’s throw away. Smoke spiraled up in wisps from its bright red jagged edges. The old man’s reclusive life had rudely invaded the sanity of mine.

All that remained were black stumps of timber rising up into a cloudless sky. It was so peaceful after all the commotion of the day before. Suddenly the quiet was shattered by a thundering crash as firemen unceremoniously knocked down a wall that was about to keel over.

His spindly old legs had carried him back there along an invisible but well-traveled path. As he watched the plumes of white dust rising up from the ground and the last dying flames, a policeman and a nurse arrived on the scene. “Are you alright?” the nurse asked caringly. “How long have you been here?” the policeman asked hastily, as if he had better things to do. Routine questions uttered out of habit. The old man was oblivious to all the attention he was getting. “Be careful.” “Don’t slip.” They gingerly escorted him down the slope. It was still wet from water seeping from the remains of the house, the home that he had just seen for the very last time.

Epilogue

I have been meaning to write this piece for a long time. To me, this event sums up the dilemma of dementia and old age, and the fact that we are all involuntary creatures of habit. I want this to be a lesson or a warning to myself – and, possibly to the reader, too – on many levels; especially, if we stop caring and let ourselves go to seed. There eventually will come a time for all of us when we won’t be able to manage without the help of others.

I’m happy that my wife and I have brought up our family to look after each other. Coming as I did from a post-war dysfunctional household, I have made a point of eating out with my wife and children at least once a month, and taking them abroad or up to the ski slopes whenever I could – things I never had the chance to enjoy, even once, growing up in London. Thankfully, we all get together frequently and enjoy the warmth of each others’ company. As I write, I’m looking forward to Christmas dinner with our daughter and her wonderful husband at our favorite restaurant on the 25th, everyone getting together and playing with my adorable grandchildren over the New Year, taking little Lynn-chan skiing, and hearing lots of “Jījī, arigatōs!” (thank you, granddad!).

I take comfort in the thought that my children’s upbringing will stand us in good stead in later years.

Penned on December 20th, 2019

Poetry that is about the ancient capital or was set in Kyoto

Berryman on Ryoan-ji

Dream Song 73: Karesansui, Ryoan-ji by John Berryman
(from his visit to Kyoto in 1957)

The taxi makes the vegetables fly.
‘Dozo kudasai,’ I have him wait.
Past the bright lake up into the temple,
shoes off, and
my right leg swings me left.
I do survive beside the garden I

came seven thousand mile the other way
supplied of energies all to see, to see.
Differ them photographs, plans lie:
how big it is!
austere a sea rectangular of sand by the oiled mud wall,
and the sand is not quite white: granite sand, grey,

–from nowhere can one see all the stones–
but helicopters or a Brooklyn reproduction
will fix that–

and the fifteen changeless stones in their five worlds
with a shelving of moving moss
stand me the thought of the ancient maker priest.
Elsewhere occurs–I remember–loss.
Through awes & weathers neither it increased
nor did one blow of all his stone & sand thought die.

Photo by John Dougill

For a commentary on this poem, see the first page of a JSTOR article by Jack V. Barbera, first published in Modern Language Studies, vol 14, no. 4 (Autumn 1984). Those with access to JSTOR can of course see the whole article. (For an account of 1950s Kyoto, see this account by Hans Brinckmann.)

Review of ‘Tokyo: A Biography’

Book Review of Tokyo: A Biography by Stephen Mansfield (208 pages) Disasters, Destruction and Renewal: The Story of an Indomitable City

Reviewer: Ian Yates

Tokyo, the city, the metropolis, the legend, has always been overpowering to me. It has intimidated and frightened me by its vastness. This fear morphed into disdain and a belief that in some ways Tokyo was economically elitist, a sort of silver spooned child built on the hard work of the rest of the country. To be honest, these feelings lingered so much so that I have made it a hobby to on far too many occasions to announce: “Tokyo, that’s not the real Japan”.

For some reason these feelings have never been assuaged by the Osakans living around me.

So, how does someone give Tokyo a new look and a fair shake? How does someone take in something so enormous in size and scope? How does someone get a real grasp on this monster that is at the same time one city while also being its own country as well as multiple worlds. How does one encapsulate all that in 200 pages?

Well, the answer to all of the above is that you need a guide, and the better the guide the better all of those fears subside and the questions are answered.

Our guide in Tokyo: A Biography is the fantastic Stephen Mansfield. Mansfield is a journalist and photographer with decades of experience covering Asia for numerous publications (such as the Japan Times, Japan Quarterly, and Newsweek) and numerous books covering the areas of Laos, stone gardens, Japan, and more specifically, Tokyo.

Within the pages of Tokyo: A Biography, like the biography of any great boxing champion, Mansfield begins to make Tokyo accessible by illuminating its humble beginnings along with the innumerable setbacks throughout its growth. Describing the initial group of ronin and single men coming to Edo in the early development of Tokyo as a hub, Mansfield says of their living quarters,

Communal facilities included garbage dumps, the toilet and the well… rats were drawn to the garbage piles… sleeping conditions inside the row houses must have been suffocating… (and) in a normal year the Sumida River could be expected to flood twice, its inundations turning districts along its banks into quagmires of foul-smelling mud.

This certainly gives context to the sacrifices made of the initial inhabitants to build the great city today, and Mansfield’s accessible and straightforward writing style paints a picture of the hard work and dedication needed to build up Tokyo.

Continuing to guide us through time, Mansfield shows how our hard punching Edo grows into Tokyo and again, just when our champion appears to be unbeatable, how it comes up against three insurmountable opponents – Fire, Earthquake, War.

Though little of the basic history will come as a surprise, the advantage of having a brilliant guide shows itself again with Mansfield’s descriptions of these disasters. Speaking of those caught between two walls of fire after the devastating 1923 quake, Mansfield writes:

Tokyo was burning on both sides of the river… a strange phenomenon was taking place as fires in the Nihonbashi commercial district merged, then leapt across the river… those not lifted up by the spirals of flame and then dropped to the ground in molten balls of fire were caught under showers of sparks that set their belongings ablaze. Some 44,000 people perished at the depot. The bodies,  reduced to ashes, were placed in crude receptacles made from corrugated iron.

Only a true champion could take such punches and rise again, and again, and again. Mansfield gives us the story of a Tokyo with just enough sympathy to make anyone appreciate the tenacity of what it took to survive, let alone succeed.

However, Mansfield never refuses to confront some of the darker sides of Tokyo. The Koreans unjustly attacked as scapegoats and slaughtered in the midst of that same 1923 disaster are addressed and the shame of such human evil is never shied away from. Mansfield refuses to give us a polished and cleaned version of the history of Tokyo. While our guide certainly loves the capital, even such dark parts are examined without blinders.

Overall, this is a short examination that takes on a huge task. Anyone looking for more detailed research on any particular event will need to continue reading after this book. However, this is a wonderful short read for anyone without the time or inclination to go into more detail, and it may work (as it did for me) as a catalyst towards subjects that pique your interests.

In the end, maybe I was wrong about Tokyo, and maybe I need to change my attitude. Nevertheless, my reaction seems common, and at one point Mansfield himself addresses these feelings:

“Edokko” meaning “true child of Edo” prided themselves on being unproductive and expressed open contempt for pecuniary concerns… they were not universally liked. The diligent tradesmen of Osaka, for example, derided the Edokko as “rakes and profligates of Edo, hot-blooded but hairy-brained, putting assets into bottomless bags”.

So, maybe I will begin to respect Tokyo a bit more, but most likely I’ll justify my position as one backed historically and just start calling the businessmen of new Edo “hairy-brained”. One more nugget gained from the tremendous writing and guidance of Stephen Mansfield.

A worthy read from an interesting and well-informed author.

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For an account of Stephen Mansfield’s 2019 presentation to WiK, see here. For his review of the WiK Anthology 3, Encounters with Kyoto, please click here. For his amazon page with a list of his books, please see this link.

Featured writing

Hoshi Matsuri (Edward J. Taylor)

(Photos by Edward T. Taylor)

A small group of us met at Keage Station and began the walk up to Agon-shu’s huge Hoshi Matsuri event in the hills above Kiyomizu-dera. I’d been wanting to go for years, but always seemed to hear about it afterward, usually in that half-page ad in the Japan Times that the sect shells out big money for.

 Along the way, we passed many Agon-shu acolytes in their yamabushi-like clothing, hands together in gassho. The ones at the top greeted us with a simple, “Welcome home.” There were thousands of people up here (half a million I later heard), funneled down a narrow dirt road gone grey and muddy from the weekend’s snow. At the far end of the bottleneck was an open space with a small stage and many tables selling food and the wooden gomaki tablets on which people would write their prayers.

We were all given rice balls and complimentary black tea. It was a beautiful day, pleasant to stand in the sunshine and look around at the bizarre carnival aspect of it all. I hadn’t expected this. Men and women dressed somewhat like leprechauns worked the crowd, greeting and smiling, while an old man and a group of young women, all dressed as Daikokuten, danced on stage to traditional Japanese flutes and strings, singing a song with religious lyrics. It was like a psychedelic church camp. But when I left to find a bathroom, I began to notice something else. Walking among the crowd was a firsthand encounter with hive mind. I noticed how damaged many of these people looked. Japanese society is built with the mortar of fitting in, and walking the streets of any city is like strolling around Disneyland. Things are just too pristine. Up here, we could see ‘other.’ A few of them had blank, lifeless eyes.

I’m not going to call this New Religion a cult. And it’s hardly a new idea that religion offers refuge for those who are most desperate for it. Which is great. But too many confuse the finger for the moon, and history is rife with examples of those who do happen to find the moon on their own, later having their eyes poked out with those same fingers. I realize I’m biased. My own spirituality is based on compassion, but I have very little for religion itself. I’m working on transcending that irony.

We moved down the hill to the center of the hive itself. A large square stadium had been built to house this event. People stood and leaned on the rails ringing the site. The earthen floor below looked like the kind of setting where bulls – or Christians – delight spectators with their violent deaths. Two massive bonfires were going, one in honor of the dead, the other for the living, both the size of a modest house. More acolytes in yamabushi garb scurried around the latter, tossing in those wooden tablets on which people had written their prayers. Others splashed ladles of water over the whole thing, creating more smoke to ensure the delivery of said prayers. Apparently smoke is the snail mail of the gods. A taiko group kept the beat, very tight. Their high level of skill attests to how much they must practice. We leaned into the rail, breathless partly by all the smoke, mostly by the spectacle. At one point the crowd was hushed and asked to place our hands together in gassho. From below, the Heart Sutra began in a low drone, quickly spreading throughout the crowd.

The head of the sect stood up and began to make esoteric mikkyo hand gestures toward the flame. His assistant stood beside him, holding a huge paper umbrella about two meters in diameter over his master, following his every movement. The effect was like watching a sahib on safari, aiming at human souls. When he was finished, we all bowed our heads in silent prayer. The only sounds to be heard were the occasional pop! of exploding wood, and the far off sound of a politician-to-be pandering from the valley below. Suddenly, the chanting resumed and more gomaki tablets were thrown into the flames. The wood itself was scrap, recycled. What of the prayers themselves?

We tore ourselves away from this and wandered over to the temple itself. Along the way, three of us stopped to make sense of a sign describing planetary-based fortune telling of some kind. We were only there for a few minutes, but when we looked up, we found that we were part of another massive queue. Somebody joked that in Japan, if you stand still long enough, a line is sure to develop. We eventually made it up to the main temple. The massive open courtyard then was covered by a few new structures. One had a stage for kagura, and another seemed to have a foundation of solid concrete. When I later tapped it with my foot, it resounded with a hollow sounding thud. (I’ll let you supply your own metaphor here.)

We descended, following a trail beside which an old marker had the word “Maruyama” carved in stone. Somehow we got turned round and became lost. Our karma no doubt for the scepticism up above. Finally we wound up having to hop a small wall into the towering Okudani Cemetery. The sheer number of graves was staggering, evenly laid rows leading down the slope toward the borrowed scenery of downtown. One of our group said, “I can’t tell you how many times this happens. We’re walking along, get lost in the forest, and wind up in the cemetery.” I said nothing. Again, some metaphors are just too obvious.

Okudani Cemetery
Agon-shu’s main temple

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For more by Edward J. Taylor, please check out this travel piece along Korea’s east coast, or this personal account of Japan’s hosting of the World Cup, or this article on visiting Cuba, or this lighthearted look at walking along the Kamogawa.

Writers in focus

Open mike with Ken Rodgers

Ken performing at the WiK year-end Words and Music party in December

At WiK’s Words and Music bonenkai on Dec 8, long term resident Ken Rodgers delivered the following piece. One time organiser of Kyoto Connection and managing editor of Kyoto Journal, Ken has been instrumental in enriching the expatriate experience for those living in the ancient capital.

_________________

The Pillowbook of Moe Uzumasa
Getting behind a microphone reminds me of a time back in the early 90s, when I had a brief but illustrious career as a pirate radio DJ at Shinchihaya, David Kubiak’s community space up in the forest on Yoshidayama – now a secluded café called Mo-an.

Mounting a short antenna on the roof, David wired up a totally illegal micro-FM transmitter. I had a few LPs and was running a little monthly writers group there called the Word Exchange — also emceeing Kyoto Connection, so I was nominated to be DJ for its initial, and probably only broadcast.

Songwriter/busker Richard Goodman starred as ‘live guest.’

Due to the elevation, one listener heard us down in Fushimi.

We were pioneers.

Later Seibu Kodo at Kyodai set up a legal local mini-FM station.  As I remember, David and Kathy suggested the name of the corporate FM Kokoro, when it started up.

Tonight I was planning to read you another pseudo-Buddhist sermon about dog-nature, elephant-nature, Buddha-nature and human nature. But since reading Chris Mosdell‘s new book, The Radicals, which is packed with historical tropes of classical Kyoto, I started looking for more present-day references to Kyoto culture, which is clearly still morphing.

Naturally enough, I thought of the Kyoto Municipal Transportation Bureau and its Get On! Kyoto City Subway campaign. ….Of course.

Mainly due to the extreme expense of full-scale archaeological surveys on every new development, by 2010 the subway had a budget deficit of 8.6 billion yen.

With 300,000 riders per day, they desperately needed an additional 50,000 passengers.

The solution? The super-cool subway and bus-tripping anime-style subway girls: Moe Uzumasa, Misa Ono, Saki Matsuga, Moe’s big sister Rei Uzumasa, and a clan of supporting characters.

So I’d like to introduce to you

The Pillowbook of Moe Uzumasa

Like Sei Shonagon, Moe loves making lists:

Things that Seem Close, but are Distant

The moon, over Higashiyama.

Harry Potter World at Universal Studios, in Osaka

Things that Seem Distant, but are Close

College entrance exams.

The fans who donated 10,422,000 yen for our 12-minute Subway Girls animation, Chikatetsu ni Noru.

Things Not Worth Doing

Traveling by Keihan, or Hankyu lines.

Not that I’d even think of doing that myself, but I hear they have some “premium cars,” that are absurdly modernistic, and others that are just hideously old-fashioned.

Things That Suck

Junior-high kids with no stuffed toy mascots hanging off their schoolbags.

Junior-high kids with ridiculously huge stuffed toy mascots hanging off their schoolbags.

My agent, for never letting me wear my pre-ripped jeans and L.A. vacation T-shirt in public.

Things That Really Suck

Being 17 years old ever since 2011.

That elderly gaijin who follows me around. Grey beard, red monkey face; elbowing his way through closing doors, leaning over my shoulder to see what I’m texting.

He just has no idea of subway etiquette.

Once he even asked me which was my favorite platform.

I said ‘Line.’ We all use it.

He just looked at me, like I hadn’t aced my Eiken test 5 years straight, and said,

‘Um, which station?’

I was like “Oh, FM Kokoro,” and he laughed and wrote that down, the idiot.

No-one under 50 listens to radio anymore.
______________________

For other pieces by Ken, see this travel article, or this D-Day memoir, or this celebration of Kyoto Journal’s 30th anniversary.

Featured writing

A Year in Review

a year in review — a haphazard collection of unruly short verse

by Lisa Wilcut

SPRING

blossoms assembling
to view springtime crowds below––
beckoned by sake, smoke and laughter
 

the whole body of the bird on the ledge 
vibrating with the effort of each note
down to its last 
                  tail 
                        feather 
 

in the sunny spot 
on the wide-open verandah
where I was just trimming my nails, 
a sparrow reading the sports page
 

locking eyes 
   with a caterpillar 
       on a cabbage leaf
in a showdown 
over dinner 

LATE SPRING / EARLY SUMMER

eyes as flooded as the paddies 
at the beauty of 
scenes reflected there
 

~after planting a field of rice destined for sake:
 

tiny frog singing his heart out 
in a rice paddy sown just today
–drunk already
 

raindrops falling, seeds of sound 
that blossom in the evening
into a thousand froggy voices

TSUYU

~ume shigoto
birdsong leaking out 
    of the June rain–
hototogisu at the window 
       come to eavesdrop on the scent of ripe plums


plum rain’s whispered roar
scent of secrets murmured there
fragrance resounding


like your eyes after a good cry,
the hydrangeas dyed by the rain
a deeper shade of blue

LATE SUMMER / “REAL” SUMMER

lacy shawl of rain
this day has worn since dawn–
she puts away now, bare breasted
to the applause of cicadas 
 

faster than the last cherry blossoms fall, 
the stars––one by one–– 
melt into the dawn
 

sitting out in the garden all night
where did I ever get the idea that 
  somewhere 
there is any line between today and tomorrow?
 

the chickens have eaten half my eggplants again—
a fair trade, I suppose, 
for a morning scramble

 

AUTUMN

pouring down the concrete steps like an anthill disturbed
––elementary students in matching yellow bucket hat
 

the fruit fly sitting on the moon 
reflected in my sake cup
come to share a drink with me 
 

ginko leaves on the checkered sidewalk–
Horikawa Go Tournament
playing out again in technicolor 

WINTER

the lean silhouette 
of sakura’s winter branches––
bare arms elegant against the moon
 

a grace unknown
to springtime ruffles
 

a single strand of
   tinsel
        flutters
on the fir tree at the curb
––
then,
  letting go of the branch,
              riding the wind 
      across the world
 

 ~the 20th night festival at Motsuji
 
 bonfire licks the depths
         of night
 ––sky, dark, taking it all
 more, more! it cries 
         –feed my hungry stars 

Featured writing

Preston’s Villanelle

The following poem, a contemporary take on the Californian Dream, was delivered at the 2019 bonenkai by Preston Keido Houser, who followed it up with a shakuhachi piece in lighter vein.

A villanelle is a fixed-form poem consisting of five tercets and a quatrain and follows a specific rhyme scheme using only two different sounds.

*****************

At land’s end there’s not much to hear
Lamentations of a blood-soaked legacy
Hymns of a haunted hemisphere

The severed scalp a poisonous souvenir 
That punctuates a psychotic reverie
At land’s end there’s not much to hear

Where once the glee of corporate cheer
Now the anguished cries of a doomed destiny
Hymns of a haunted hemisphere

Wailing women silenced by war profiteer
Frantic families imprisoned by poverty
At land’s end there’s not much to hear

Where once a hectic hope of frontier
Now the hush of extinguished epiphany
Hymns of a haunted hemisphere

Fueled by a frenzy of consensual fear
And this-land-is-your-land hypocrisy
At land’s end there’s not much to hear
Hymns of a haunted hemisphere

—Preston Keido Houser

2019



For more by Preston see here, and for another villanelle please click here.

Writers in focus

Ogura haiku

Mayumi Kawaharada writes: At the beginning of autumn, on a sunny day, I joined a volunteer event of fixing bamboo fences alongside the bamboo forests in Arashiyama. It was organised by a NPO called “People together for Mt. Ogura”. My haiku master , Stephen H Gill, is one of the cofounders of this group. They have been working on Mt. Ogura for more than a decade to fix problems arising from environmental damage.

Once a year, Stephen Gill organises a Ginko (composing poetry while strolling), combined with the NPO’s volunteer work. The bamboo fences belong to Okouchi Sanso villa, which was built by former movie actor, Okouchi Denjiro (1898-1962). Since the current owner appreciates our work, they allow us to enter their garden for free, after finishing our work fixing the bamboo fence.

A big blue heart
cut out from the mackerel sky …
Birds singing

This distant view
From an ancient actor’s moon viewing terrace , 
All to myself!

A new movie star
Posing for my cell phone—
Mischievous mantis

The garden at Okochi Sanso is marvellous!
However, there was something sad I found while fixing the fences;

Tourist’s scribble
on the bamboo cut down:
“I love you”

************
People together for Mt. Ogura;
https://infoptogura.wixsite.com/npo-pto
Bamboo fence fixing event report; 
https://hailhaiku.wordpress.com/tag/mt-ogura/

For more by Mayumi, see her previous posting of haiku pics.

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